Gank'd and Slayed
WI6 M5 A2 Steep Snow
||Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2801', Grade V
|Consensus: ||WI6 M5 A2 [details]|
|FA: ||John Kelley and Clint Helander|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter, Spring|
|Page Views: ||488|
|Submitted By: ||clint helander on Sep 17, 2012|
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First bivy on an exposed slab. Photo by John Kelle...
From the base of the snow cone, climb up to the junction of the three main routes on the northwest face. A thin ice smear on the right marks a possible start for the route. The first ascent went slightly higher and climbed a snice covered slab (AI3) that narrowed into a steepening dihedral (A2).
Continue up steps of ice (WI3/4) to a mossy chimney on the left (M5).
The next pitch leads to a dihedral and right trending corner system. Traverse steep snow to an obvious rock outcropping and belay.
Several pitches of moderate ice (WI4) lead to the route's crux pitch. Climb a short but slightly overhanging streak of ice with minimal protection (AI6). On the first ascent it was necessary to chop through a small cornice.
Assess avalanche conditions as you enter on to a hugely exposed snow field. The first ascent party carefully traversed more than a rope length of unprotected snow and dug a cave for their second bivy before climbing one more pitch of WI3 to the top.
A detailed report can be found in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.
Northwest face of Mount Yukla.
Full alpine rack to #2 cams, full set of nuts, pins and beaks! 8-12 ice screws.
Excellent ice runnel on Gank'd and Slayed. Photo b...
Approaching start of route
Gank'd and Slayed takes the serpentine ice line th...
The first belayed pitch on the route.
A steep corner system low on the route. Photo by J...
Moderate ice climbing on the route. Photo by John ...