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Routes in Mount Yukla
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Gank'd and Slayed WI6 M5 A2 Steep Snow |
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West Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2801 ft (849 m), Grade V |
| FA: | John Kelley and Clint Helander |
| Page Views: | 2,202 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Clint Helander on Sep 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | L. Von Dommelheimer |
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Description
From the base of the snow cone, climb up to the junction of the three main routes on the northwest face. A thin ice smear on the right marks a possible start for the route. The first ascent went slightly higher and climbed a snice covered slab (AI3) that narrowed into a steepening dihedral (A2).
Continue up steps of ice (WI3/4) to a mossy chimney on the left (M5).
The next pitch leads to a dihedral and right trending corner system. Traverse steep snow to an obvious rock outcropping and belay.
Several pitches of moderate ice (WI4) lead to the route's crux pitch. Climb a short but slightly overhanging streak of ice with minimal protection (AI6). On the first ascent it was necessary to chop through a small cornice.
Assess avalanche conditions as you enter on to a hugely exposed snow field. The first ascent party carefully traversed more than a rope length of unprotected snow and dug a cave for their second bivy before climbing one more pitch of WI3 to the top.
A detailed report can be found in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.
Continue up steps of ice (WI3/4) to a mossy chimney on the left (M5).
The next pitch leads to a dihedral and right trending corner system. Traverse steep snow to an obvious rock outcropping and belay.
Several pitches of moderate ice (WI4) lead to the route's crux pitch. Climb a short but slightly overhanging streak of ice with minimal protection (AI6). On the first ascent it was necessary to chop through a small cornice.
Assess avalanche conditions as you enter on to a hugely exposed snow field. The first ascent party carefully traversed more than a rope length of unprotected snow and dug a cave for their second bivy before climbing one more pitch of WI3 to the top.
A detailed report can be found in the 2007 American Alpine Journal.
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