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Whitney Portal Buttress
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Gangway 
Ghostrider 
Mean Streak 
Nimbus 
No Country For Old Men 
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") 

Gangway 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Peter Croft
New Route: Yes
Season: March - October
Page Views: 2,131
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 7, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Gangway (5.12a or 5.11A A0)

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Description 

Gangway is a new route on the buttress established by Peter Croft with some help from Marty Lewis. I haven't climbed the route but since Marty e-mailed me this beta I thought I would share it with every one.

The first pitch is, according to Marty, the best start option for Ghostrider. 4 new bolts and a little bit of gear. Wandering face on good rock to a ledge with a belay.

Not shown on the topo is the fourth pitch, which has bolts and gear to a two bolt anchor.

  • Also goes at 5.11a AO if not up to freeing the 2nd pitch.


Location 

To the right of Satoris.


Protection 

Draws, standard rack



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By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 22, 2009

goes at .12a (semi-sandbagged in my opinion, i feel like a small foothold might have broken?) If you look on the drawn topo you can see an arcing crack that ends at a two bolt anchor (the next route to the right of Ghostrider.) It now has bolts that extend the route up the slab to an anchor. This is a good option to start either Gangway or Ghostrider. Goes at .10b.

By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 22, 2009

oh yea, forgot to add that Gangway is the sicky sickness. I did it twice in two weeks and my partner kept wanting to be lowered from the belay above the corner to do TR laps on it!

By Darrell Hensel
Jun 24, 2009

I believe the curving crack mentioned (as a start to either Ghostrider or Gangway) is Tanager. Previously it ended at the double bolts (as drawn), but now goes to the ledge.

By Ryan Curry
Dec 1, 2011

The rock quality on the first pitch is quite bad. Traversing on friable friction make it thought-provoking for both leader and follower. My partner and I both broke holds and thought the pitch was harder than the given 5.9 rating. Although I haven't climbed it, the Tanager start seems like a better start to this route.

By jfailing
From: Lone Pine, CA
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13

This route was incredible! Did it at 11a-A0 by aiding the bolt-ladder - the 12 option looked ridiculously hard... We didn't do the fourth pitch.

First two pitches are alright - "Portal 5.9" seems accurate for the first pitch, and the second is easy if you aid the bolt ladder. The third is the money pitch. Make sure to conserve those #1's for the top!

Also important to note - there are only two bolts at the beginning of the third pitch. Rapped with a 70m and a 60m down Trivial Pursuit from the top of the 3rd - someone had done the same as there were carabiners at each anchor.

By J Smith
Aug 26, 2012

Awesome route but definitely start on Tanager, the first pitch is junk - to many rope drag inducing turns on friable rock. Second pitch felt mostly 5.10 except at the second to last bolt which we aided - you could aid the whole thing and make it much easier. Third pitch is why you do this route, a full 60m of stellar climbing. The crack mostly takes BD #2 and larger, I would recommend extra pieces in the #3 and #4 range and 1 x #5 (new sizes). Never felt 5.11a to me, in fact it didn't feel much harder if any than the 10c dihedral on No Country for Old Men.

By El scorpion
Oct 29, 2012

You can rap from the top of Gangway P3 with 1 70 or 80 M- do a short rap left (looking down) to Trivial pursuit chains then 2nd rap back right to a huge ledge with bushes- walk down this to P1 anchor of Gangway or all the way to Tanager anchor.

Do Tanager to start this climb (.3-#1 cams) then walk up ledge to P1 anchor of Gangway. Leave everything smaller than a .75 cam at this belay. #1, #2, #3, #4 for Gangway - save 1 of each for the top after the wide section. I don't think big cams would work/ you don't need them. Nothing smaller than .75 fits the 3rd pitch

Great route