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Top of the world/Entry way
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Black Bird, The 
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You Say Tomato 

Gangster Hippie 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Jason Kamen
Page Views: 2,238
Submitted By: Rob Riggleman on Jul 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Gangster Hippie starts on the right-facing jugs, m...

Description 

Start on the right-facing jugs, and move left on some fairly bad slopers. Set up on some sloping feet and make a big move up to a sloping rail and try to surmount the bulge.


Location 

Pretty much straight uphill from the Entry Way boulder, the starting jugs are obvious and well-chalked.


Protection 

Pads.



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By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 8, 2009

Yet again I got info for this problem from here. I also took the grade from a video linked on their site; I haven't sent it yet, but I'll give it a star rating and my opinion on the grade if/when I put it together.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 18, 2010
rating: V5-6 6C+

There is a sit-start to this problem which begins down and right of the starting holds. Crank off of two sloping holds, burl through some fairly awkward climbing to gain Gangsta's starting rail, then blast off. Perhaps not a classic, but certainly a grunt-fest. About V7 or 8.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 12, 2010
rating: V5-6 6C+

I don't usually see it prudent (or worthwhile) to downgrade problems, but I kind of think V7 is a bit of a stretch for this problem. Maybe V6. Just my opinion; I'm not willing to push the issue. Problems in Santa Barbara have a way of cleaning up, morphing, losing holds, etc. It is—regardless of grade—one of the better problems at Lizard's Mouth.

By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bend
Mar 14, 2011
rating: V6 7A

My vote is probably a six on normal days. The friction was incredible today and it felt like a five.

By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Jan 13, 2013
rating: V6 7A

Did the sit today. Started with a left hand in the big concave sloper, and the right hand on the lowest small sloping dish on the right face. This basically made it two moves to the hole. Grunty for sure. V7/8 for this start is my vote. It felt like wrestling with an ape.