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3 sport routes and 3 trad routes start from this ledge. Lunar Tune 10a is the finger crack in the dihedral that is often filled with wasps.
Follow the approach to Asbury Park. This is a ledge just right (south) of the Main Wall. A 35 ft. 5th class scramble to the left edge of the ledge takes one to the ledge. At the time of this writing there was a fixed rope placed by Chris Grijalva that helps with the scramble to the ledge.
8 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gangsta' Ledge:
Teardrops on the City 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Tiny Giant 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Gangsta' Ledge
Takeda Route 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Gangsta' Ledge
Perhaps the best 5.10 at Schoolroom. I'm not sure if Pete ever named this thing, but for someone who had never been to Schoolroom before (or after?), he sure picked out a gem. Climb easy ground up to the finger crack, then follow the finger crack to the first glue-in bolt. A 15 foot section of face past another glue-in on clean stone takes you up to the seam. End at the glue-in anchor. The crack leading to the bolts takes some good TCUs and small nuts and the seam up top takes a decent nut a...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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