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This is not a new or independent route but a combination of the starting crack on Gandalf’s Grip and the top half of Peach Cling’s crack. In some ways, this is a more natural path than busting left towards the bolted face on GG’s first pitch once the crack peters out.
Start on Gandalf’s Grip and climb until the crack ends (crux). Angle right on easy face holds for about ten feet (protectable) to join with the crack above New Wave & Peach Cling. Save some hand sized pieces of protection for this section. This easy crack is on a lower angle face that has lots of good edges. Follow the crack up as it angles slightly right until it ends at a nice belay ledge and bolted anchor.
It seemed worthwhile to post information about this hybrid route as it has several elements which are rare to have on Broughton Bluff’s gear protected, single pitch climbs: It is clean, easily protectable, fairly long, the falls are safe, goes at a moderate grade and is really fun.
Center of the North Wall
Gear to 2" & slings
Another view of the route.
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