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 ADVANCED
(1) North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cindyrella T,S 
Dark Tower S 
Frodo's Journey S 
Gandalf's Grip T 
Gandalf’s Peach T 
Peach Cling T 
Pipen's Direct T 
Risky Business T,S 
Skullduggery  T 
Traffic Court T 

Gandalf’s Peach 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: another Chad on Jul 22, 2013

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Gandalf's Peach

Description 

This is not a new or independent route but a combination of the starting crack on Gandalf’s Grip and the top half of Peach Cling’s crack. In some ways, this is a more natural path than busting left towards the bolted face on GG’s first pitch once the crack peters out.

Start on Gandalf’s Grip and climb until the crack ends (crux). Angle right on easy face holds for about ten feet (protectable) to join with the crack above New Wave & Peach Cling. Save some hand sized pieces of protection for this section. This easy crack is on a lower angle face that has lots of good edges. Follow the crack up as it angles slightly right until it ends at a nice belay ledge and bolted anchor.

It seemed worthwhile to post information about this hybrid route as it has several elements which are rare to have on Broughton Bluff’s gear protected, single pitch climbs: It is clean, easily protectable, fairly long, the falls are safe, goes at a moderate grade and is really fun.

Location 

Center of the North Wall

Protection 

Gear to 2" & slings


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Another view of the route.

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