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The good clean fun of Gamesmanship, P. 1
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Gamesmanship is one of Poke-O's oldest and finest routes.
Begin the route in the right hand of two handcracks behind a nice, large birch tree.
Technically, the route's crux is the first 15 feet of climbing and consists of insecure (read: slippery) jams in a fist-size crack. Once past this section, expect endless jamming in an impeccable crack to a bolted anchor. (5.8+ / 140 feet)
Continue up the left-facing corner above and belay at the dike on a comfortable ledge. (5.7 / 120 feet)
Easy does it up the broken rock above until it is possible to trend right up less-than-vertical rock to clump of trees on a spacious ledge below a left-facing corner. (5.4R / 100 feet)
A great pitch. Move out right and climb a pure handcrack that slices through the airy face above. The crack will end, but continue up much easier terrain to a lone white birch tree on a small, but comfortable belay ledge. (5.7+ / 140 feet)
A pitch of much less difficulty leads up the clean, open slab above to the top. Belay at the trees. (5.1R / 150 feet)
From the top of the route look down and to the right. There is an island of trees at the cliff's edge with a slung tree to rap the route. Walk across and down the open slab to the trees. 3 rappels with two 60 meter ropes will deposit you on the ground.
Roughly 120 feet to the right of the large, grassy Positive Thinking area.
A standard rack with several #2 Camalots and a couple #3 Camalots for the first pitch. Two Cordolettes, and two 60 meter ropes to rappel the route.
Ben Botelho follows P1 of Gamesmanship(5.8+)
From: rosendale, ny
Dec 19, 2007
On the pitch 3 description....I think you meant to trend RIGHT to clump of trees.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Dec 19, 2007
I sure did...thanks for catching that!
|By Michael John Gray|
From: Queensbury, NY
Aug 23, 2008
I thought Pitch four was harder than two! I see you caught that too. Cool!
|By Derek Doucet|
Jun 10, 2010
An excellent first pitch and a good 4th pitch are detracted from by uninteresting and unaesthetic climbing on pitches 2 and 3. I'd give P1 4 stars and P4 3 stars, but none to the other pitches, and so the route as a whole only 2 stars.
Better to do P1 and rap, then do the Sting and Green Onion to take in 3 excellent 5.8s. IMHO, the only compelling reason to do the entire route is because it provides a moderate way to get to the top of Poko, which is admittedly a rare thing!
|By Peter Lewis|
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 20, 2010
Outstanding jamming (except for the choss of the third pitch). A couple of notes about the rappel. You can do just two rappels with doubld 60s, but, it involves about 40 feet of 4th class downclimbing on the blocky dike rock between rappels (dangerous). A much safer alternative is to make one short rappel (about 40 meters) from the tree island at the top to a fixed anchor on a small ledge on the steep wall. Then make a second rappel down through the dike-rock to the next anchor, and then a third to the ground. Be extremely careful on the last rappel, however--twin 60's JUST make it (tie knots and use an autobock backup). If in doubt, stop at either of two other anchors about halfway down the last rap.
Sep 27, 2011
I thought pitch 2 was just as good as pitch 4, neither of which in any way compares to pitch 1. Nonetheless, a very worthwhile outing.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 14, 2011
I would definitely double up on BD #1 and #2. I had a #4 and was fine without having double #3s.
From: Lake George, NY
Feb 14, 2013
as a side note. pitches 2 & 3 AND 4 & 5 can be linked with a 70m rope if u move the belay at the top of p3 up and right to the base of the "Ski Tracks" pitch. (easily done because this section is a large ledge)