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Future Games Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bendix Claws, The T 
Continuum T 
Disappearing Act T 
Games Without Frontiers T 
Hang 'Em High T 
Invisibility Lessons T 
Invisible Touch T 
Sandblast T 
Therapeutic Tyranny T 

Games Without Frontiers 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Paul Borne, 1989
Page Views: 1,713
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jan McCollum and I did the second ascent of Games ...

Description 

About halfway between Invisibility Lessons and Continuum, is this very hard route. Its a 5.13 that isn't overhanging and that should convey a lot. Ultra thin face moves through the initial three bolt section lead to a discontinuous crack finish. The line was originally rap bolted by some Euros back around 85. The bolts disappeared quickly until Paul Borne did it ground up, perfectly situating them for the route.

Protection 

3 bolts, gear to 1.5" (mostly thin)


Photos of Games Without Frontiers Slideshow Add Photo
Bolted crux of the ulta-thin Games Without Frontie...
BETA PHOTO: Bolted crux of the ulta-thin Games Without Frontie...
Games Without Frontiers (5.13a) runs up the blank ...
BETA PHOTO: Games Without Frontiers (5.13a) runs up the blank ...

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By Drewsky
Dec 27, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13

I crumbled a foothold and almost hit the deck right before the second bolt. It (the foothold) is still there, but if it breaks while you're pulling slack to clip you will probably deck. This is quite the route. Very thin but still there. I previewed the gear and toproped this before leading it; onsighting the top section would be exciting and possibly dangerous if you have less than superior nutting skills. 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 in my book.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 17, 2011

This is a pretty cool route, bring your stiffest shoes. Tricky sequences on ultra thin yet fairly positive/sharp holds through the bolts, then some uber-funk getting established in the first crack portion. Slightly runout in the upper half, you'll get good gear (small stoppers) about a body length above the last bolt, then it's a bit run on easier climbing. Small stoppers (#1/#2DMM), yellow tcu, and another cam or nut from tips to .5 camalot should see you through. Good rock, fun and varied climbing, 3/5 stars.
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Nov 13, 2012

" ...but if it breaks while you're pulling slack to clip you will probably deck..."

This is why I used double ropes. Assuming your belayer is up to speed with the system you can pull slack on one cord to clip while still being properly belayed on the other.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 14, 2012

^^
Kris,remind me to not belay you on anything hard with twins. Your bean couldn't take my incompetency for that is certain.
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Nov 27, 2012

Susan, The best of all possible worlds is to lead on the doubles with two belayers, one for each cord. The downside is that your beer expenses double...
By Drewsky
Dec 21, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13

Double ropes? Us new-wave climbers have trouble enough managing one...