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Game Theory 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: ---- on Aug 29, 2012
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South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Game theory is a good alternative to the steep manufactured routes that Area 51 is known for. While it starts out steep, the angle quickly turns to vertical. The vertical section contains all of the hardest moves.

With the high first bolt stick clipped, lie back your way up a giant detached flake. There is one cruxy lock off move in the first few bolts that is a little challenging for shorter climbers. Continue tugging on large hand holds straight through an interesting top out move that delivers you to vertical terrain. A really good rest can be copped here before traversing right then heading straight up the blank face.

The vertical face is a bit perplexing, especially when there is no chalk to guide you. Expect a relentless series of slopey edges as you teeter on one foothold at a time. The climbing is balancy and technical the entire way. A noticeable crux is found 15 feet below the anchor. There are multiple ways to make it through this section so be sure to do a thorough survey of all the possible handholds.


Location 

Located to the right of the main cave. Two routes start on the large detached flake. Game Theory goes straight up and a project cuts out left off the line.


Protection 

9 bolts plus anchor



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By Joseph DeGaetano
From: Fayetteville, WV
Aug 30, 2012

This route is excellent and probably the best warm up for the steep cave routes to the left. Bottom 10 feet is pretty rotten rock.