Classic Bohuslan climbing in a beautiful, pastoral setting. There are two crags - Lilla Galgeberget and Stora Galgeberget.
Heading north on Hwy 162 from Lysekil, turn left into Brodalen (Coop grocery store at corner), go through "town", road curves right and goes over a small bridge. Turn left on road towards Slavik. Go a few minutes, then turn right on the road marked Roe Gard. Continue to the obvious red barn/cafe - turn left here. The first crag you see on the left is not Galgeberget. Continue up the road until a large pullout is reached on the left, just after passing a house. Park here. Just right of the parking area is a trail that leads to a ladder over the fence - the trail leads you to the base of Stora Vaggen and the route "Bagatellen". To get to Lilla Vaggen (for the route "Masken"), walk to left from the base of Stora Vaggen.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Galgeberget:
Featured Route For Galgeberget
Masken 5.11c International : Europe : ... : Lilla Galgeberget
This beautiful, splitter finger crack begs to be climbed. The crux section through the steep bit goes from .4 Camalots to .5 Camalots - the hardest part for you will depend on finger size. Gain the welcome rest ledge at the top of the crux section and continue up the flake to the block/face above. Mantel onto the top.According to locals, the topout is a popular hangout spot for snakes. Place a piece before making the topout mantel just in case.Belay on gear....[more] Browse More Classics in International