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Galen's Crack
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Falkenstein Face TR 
Galen's Crack TR 

Galen's Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Galen Rowell
Page Views: 698
Submitted By: Sean H on Jun 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Galen's Crack, 5.10c

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Obvious, splitter OW. The bottom part of the climb is slightly overhanging, and goes from hands to fists (the crux).

Pulling through the fists crux, then thrutching a ways will eventually land you in more straight forward OW technique (likely left side in) about halfway up the crack, with jugs on the outside near the top.

Occasionally there are some hidden holds inside the crack as well.


Can't miss it.


TR off of two bolts, though you never know if they'll be there, or chopped. Bring wide gear and long runners/rope if the bolts are not present.

Photos of Galen's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Sean cranking through the crux
Sean cranking through the crux

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By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A fun lead as well, well protected for wyde. Pro to 6"
By Fluoride
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 6, 2012

Did it on TR but the starting moves to about 15 feet up are the crux. After that lots of nice in cuts in the crack and surprisingly good feet. One for my lead tick list next season.
By Phil Esra
Jul 8, 2013

On the left end of a modest bulge east of Low Pro Dome. Took us a couple passes by car to spot it. Anchor bolts present as of 7/4/13. Harder and more technical crux than Generator Crack. Bring the biggest, fattest fists you've got.
By Johnny Y
From: California
Jul 30, 2013

You can see the crack and the pullout across from the street in this google street view (scroll around):


It was hard to find where to stop as a first timer especially with lame tourists tailgating you at 50 mph
By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Short but sweet. Great fun on toprope. For me, easier to get psyched up to solo it than lead it.
By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
Jul 24, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Small fists make this an absolute thrutch-fest.
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