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Galengrat
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Galengrat- verschneidung 5c 

Galengrat-verschneidung 5c 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 2,020
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Oct 22, 2008
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The view back down the route from the final anchor...

Description 

A superb, moderate day climb on raw, alpine granite in a breathtaking alpine setting. rock is solid and the climbing varied. The final two pitches, up an awesome corner to the gain the ridge, offer continuously brilliant climbing from start to finish.

The route is around 300 meters, and has nine pitches.



Location 

The approach begins from the top of the Furka pass, traversing across beautiful alpine terrain to the base of the Sidelen glacier. The wall is at the back end of the glacier. The total approach time is around 1 hour and 45 minutes, with limited vertical.

A fixed rope near the base of the wall (in place to facilitate the start for various snow levels) provides a good means for orientation.

Descent is via abseilpiste, starting from the last anchor of the route.


The Sidelen hut is near the base of the glacier, and is a good base location for this and the many other routes in this area. There are a number of modest hotels/restaurants along the pass road as well.


Protection 

Overall, the route is reasonably well equipped with bolts/pitons (including bolted anchors). A small assortment of complementary gear may come in handy. The first pitch, which at 5c is the most difficult of the route, is very well bolted.



Photos of Galengrat-verschneidung 5c Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the summit of Galenstock 3580m
Nearing the summit of Galenstock 3580m
Pitch one
Pitch one
views from the top, towards the south
views from the top, towards the south
Jesse C scrambling up on easy terrain between the fifth and sixth pitch.
Jesse C scrambling up on easy terrain between the ...
Pitch one
Pitch one
The wall, taken from the base of the route.
The wall, taken from the base of the route.
Heading up the P8 dihedral
Heading up the P8 dihedral
Views from the top of the route, westwards over the Rhone glacier
Views from the top of the route, westwards over th...
Luxury abseil ledge. Ethics are relative...
Luxury abseil ledge. Ethics are relative...
Comments on Galengrat-verschneidung 5c Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Aug 20, 2012

Though this is included in all of the more recent Plaisir guidebooks tot the area, due to global warming glacier recession, the first pitch (which before was under ice) is harder than 5.9. The route remains a classic for position, crack climbing, and outstanding views of the entire Berner Oberland. Rock quality similar to the best in the Winds.

By Dan Flynn
Administrator
Oct 7, 2012

We started too far left, ended up doing a short but harder start pitch, then traversed right to the actual start. Look for the fixed rope!

Descent now also possible from the E face. Keep going from the finish up to the summit ridge, and look for a large cairn with flags on it. Look back, and you should see "50 m -->" painted in red, pointing to the abseilpiste. 4x 50 or 3x 60 gets you down to a snow field, easy scramble and sliding down to the glacier.

Also, from the Galengrat finish it is less than an hour to the summit of Galenstock. Easy terrain except for a short section of ~ 40 snow, well worth the effort to get the summit view.