Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R | |
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Byzantine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gypsy Arete TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a | |
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 5.15+ 9b+ 38 XII+ 39 E11 8b | |
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Pirates of Penzance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R | |
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R | |
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a | |
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
FA: | Ed Webster |
Page Views: | 1,754 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | matthew ritter on Jun 18, 2014 |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Butterfield guidebook warns us to be careful getting to the first bolt. After climbing a bunch of easy ground one will be sufficiently high enough to hurt oneself permanently if they were to fall while performing the mandatory 5.9ish move to get the first bolt clipped. This might be a good time for the ol locking carabiner on the first bolt trick. Ed Webster bolted this route on lead. He is definitely The Man!
Make thin, technical and committing moves past a drilled piton and another bolt to some much better holds in a suspect flake and go up.
Get a bit of a rest, move right into a sea of smooth Feldspar Granite, gain a right angling corner (left wall overhanging) and make committing yet more moderate moves thru the corner making sure to look around for some key footholds. Another interesting flake, the one the gear lives in, allows one to mantle onto the upper slab.
Hopefully the aspirant clipped all of the gear long up to this point because the saga has merely begun. Set sail and get situated beneath the crux finger crack splitting the steep swell of Maniacal Depression. A committing high step gains a solid, bucketous, lock. " Arrrr batten down the hatches matie," cuz its about to get hard! This is one of the few routes I've been on that goes from slab to vertical to overhanging and back to vertical in 15 feet.
Find the sequence thru the series of shallow pods and jams as you walk the plank hanging your butt way out there laybacking the apex of this mounting swell. Get a stance, place some gear in the shin region, and surge up the last sequence. Try not to become Earth's largest land mammal, (The Beached Whale) mantling above small gear with the weight of the rope threatening to pull you out to sea.
This is a much better way to access the upper crux of Maniacal Deprerssion.
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