G3  5.10+

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Bernard Gillett and Paul Foster, 2011 New Route:  Yes Season:  late spring to early fall Submitted By:  Bernard Gillett on Aug 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Wizard's Gate Face Area. Topo courtesy Bob Siegri...

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Description 

G3 connects Crystal Staircase to the Riding with the Ravens anchor.

Clip the first 5 bolt on Crystal Staircase, and then move up and left to a body-length ceiling. Make several hero moves through the ceiling on huge jugs, and finish on a slab to the chains on Riding with the Ravens (7 more bolts).

One of the huge handholds in the roof is a wedged flake that may tear out some day -- seemed pretty solid when we climbed it. The bolts have been placed in a manner that, should the flake give way, I think you'd survive. Ask your belayer to move a little bit to the right as you pull the roof if you're having a bad luck day.

Location 

Start on Crystal Staircase and then head left through a big overhang (crux) to the anchors on Riding with the Ravens.

Protection 

12 bolts protect the line.