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Wizard's Gate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterlife  S 
Black Magic  S 
Book of Spells T 
Cloak and Dagger S 
Crystal Staircase S 
Dark Horse S 
Dead End  T 
Fantasia T 
G3 S 
Gatekeeper, The S 
Guillotine, The S 
Magic Carpet Ride  S 
Magic Dagger S 
Merlin's Magic Corner T 
Ravenclaw T 
Riding with the Ravens S 
Take Me to Your Leader S 
Witchway Arete S 
Wizard's Path S 


YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Foster, 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: late spring to early fall
Page Views: 676
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 4, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Wizard's Gate Face Area. Topo courtesy Bob Siegri...


G3 connects Crystal Staircase to the Riding with the Ravens anchor.

Clip the first 5 bolt on Crystal Staircase, and then move up and left to a body-length ceiling. Make several hero moves through the ceiling on huge jugs, and finish on a slab to the chains on Riding with the Ravens (7 more bolts).

One of the huge handholds in the roof is a wedged flake that may tear out some day -- seemed pretty solid when we climbed it. The bolts have been placed in a manner that, should the flake give way, I think you'd survive. Ask your belayer to move a little bit to the right as you pull the roof if you're having a bad luck day.


Start on Crystal Staircase and then head left through a big overhang (crux) to the anchors on Riding with the Ravens.


12 bolts protect the line.

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