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Routes Sorted
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Against the Grain 
Bikini Beach 
Bikini Whale 
G-String 
Railer 

G-String 

5.13d

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.13d [details]
FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1991
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: G-String

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Description 

To my knowledge, this route has not seen a second ascent.

Begin up Bikini Whale, then after reaching the "rail" above the 2nd bolt, head left to a series of 5 bolts that protect extremely thin and powerful layback moves up a tiny offset seam. Finish as per Bikini Whale.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 11, 2004
rating: 5.13d

While yoyo-ing the "Whale" our group of five stood in amazement as we tried to fake our ourselves into thinking that "holds" really exist on this cruxy route. The line is evident, but oh so thin.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2004

Is this really the hardest route in Jtree. I thought there was a 5.14 there.

By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 26, 2004

This may not be THE hardest route, but it certainly is one of the hardest and remains unrepeated. The reported "long reaches between holds" are characteristic of Scott's routes, but it's interesting to note that Cosgrove's Integrity (5.14a) was repeated by Leavitt, who also established Dihedron (5.14a) the other "hardest" route.

Here's a partial list of some of the harder routes in the Park - Integrity (5.14a), Dihedron (5.14a), G-String (5.13d), The New Deal (5.13d), Mamba (5.13d), La Machine (5.13d).

It's interesting to note that while there are many difficult routes at Josh most see little to no action. Some routes have seen no repeats while others have had only a few.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 27, 2004

Hmmm. That is interesting. Maybe Jtree isn't a common destination for the hardest of the hard. Perhaps they are moredrawn to the overhung limestone areas? Seems like Sharma or Caldwell have probably spent time out there though.

By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 27, 2004

Perhaps AC, although I do recall a certain "rock star", who fresh from sending some 5.14's on limestone got totally schooled on Bikini Whale...maybe it's was reachy for him? Or just a high-gravity day? Perhaps a trip to the nearby Integratron to recharge was in order?

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 24, 2006
rating: 5.13d

It took Cosgrove three weeks just to work out the moves on this thing. It's 13a just to the crux section involving a (typical for the Coz) long pull from a two-finger crimp to hideous slopers...9 bolts and insane.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jan 25, 2009

Word on the street is that holds have broken. It is a fairly crumbly part of Josh, so this is likely. Integrity is a better quality route, which is probably why it's seen repeats. But Cos is tall and did say that the crux here was long, so maybe that's why as well. He once told me that he thought 13d/14a was appropriate, so maybe it should get the latter until repeated.

Does Mamba exist? I think the Snake Pit is gone. And what about Stingray? I think it's confirmed at the grade.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 11, 2012

"Word on the street is that holds have broken. It is a fairly crumbly part of Josh, so this is likely"

I wouldn't call that wall a crumbly part of Josh at all. Having belayed a 5.14 climber on this route, who has done stacks of 13s in Josh in all styles, and quickly at that, this is a reach problem. Not to say that the climbing isn't really hard, it is, but if you're under about 6'3 this thing is probably 14+ if it's even possible.