G-String Giants  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Anthony Baraff on Aug 14, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route is the link up of the start of G-String and the finish of Land of the Giants. It possesses quite a bit of climbing with several 5.7 cruxes after the initial 5.8 traverse crux. The route finding is a little bit tricky.

Walk up the ramp to the base of the flaring off-width. Climb up and right to a horizontal crack below an overhang. Traverse right about 5 feet to gain good hands. At this point the book says to climb up the slab before traversing 10-12 feet right at a large horizontal. (I, however, continued to traverse right before climbing the right facing Gelsa corner for 5 feet.) No matter which route you take, you will find yourself at the base of a crack with several horizontal holds to its right. Continue to climb this crack/weakness up. You will eventually arrive at a small left facing corner 5-7 feet tall. Climb this and move around up and right to the bolted Fat City Direct belay/rap-station. If you are using a 70m rope you can be lowered from here.

Location 

The route starts 15 feet left of Gelsa on a rightward arching off-width at the top of a small ramp that rises from right to left.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack with some micro cams.