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G-Man  T,S 
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Unknown (5.8?) S 

G-Man Extension (AKA Book'em, Dano) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dimitri Barton and Dave Neilson
Page Views: 787
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Oct 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

(Title edited to reflect the First Ascensionists Comments. I kept Book'em Dano since that is what the route is shown as in the Supertopo guidebook)

Trend right past a thin crack on huge knobs from the belay for Nurdle. This pitch can also be linked with Knob Job or G-Man for a full 60m experience.

Clip a bolt and pull a few hard moves to get established on a huge knob. Clip the final bolt, mantel the large flat knob and hope you are at least 5' 10" or taller.

Those that can't reach the next hold will have to jump. The grade here is proportional to your height and ability to dyno without handholds.

Once the distant hold is reached make some powerful pulls on knobs and incuts to gain the top.

Location 

This pitch starts on the ledge halfway up the wall above the main approach trail. Start Via Nurdle, Knob Job or G-Man

Protection 

Two bolts and .5" cam (green alien)

There is a rap station at the top and you can descend with two 60 meter ropes.


Comments on G-Man Extension (AKA Book'em, Dano) Add Comment
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By Dimitri Barton
Aug 16, 2010

This is not Book 'em Dano.
Book 'em Dano goes out the diagonal line of knobs out to the right and them up to the top of the cliff, 5.10b.

This climb is an extension of G-Man and is meant to be climbed in one pitch, 55 meters.

FA Dimitri Barton Scott Stowe 1988
By jimi thornburg
Apr 23, 2014

I'm 6' and I had to jump about 6 inches to get the horizontal. I think you'd have to be really tall (6'5"?) to avoid the jump, which is pretty scary onsight!
By Vlad S
3 days ago

I've TR this before doing the jump without a problem. Tried leading it recently and found myself standing on the huge knob with the bolt at my ankle level. I'm 5'8" and needed only another 3 inches to reach the horizontal. With multiple large knobs to land on in case of flailure I found myself lacking in the sac department and bailed. This climb would have been a lot more enjoyable if that bolt was moved a few feet higher or better yet with another bolt just below the horizontal. It's basically a no-hands stance there, so not placing a bolt on the FA was a contrivance.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
3 days ago

Yeah the FA should have done one more mantle before pulling out the drill. Clipping a bolt to do a 5.6 mantle and then facing an ankle busting runout for the 5.10+ all-points-off dyno is just strange.