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Start as for Knob Job but solo up and right on huge incuts ~5.0. There is also an alternate 5.8 direct start that can be soloed.
Make you way up to a bolt and pull a hard move on a blank section between knobs. I placed a cam a few feet before making the final moves this first bolt. Run it out to another good ledge and the final bolt.
The next section is the crux and any beta would ruin the excitement.
This climb finishes at the same ledge as Nurdle. It can also be linked with Book'em Dano to get a full 60 meter experience (highly recommended)
Start as for Knob Job or lower and right on the face. Either walk left on the midway ledge and rap with a 60m rope or continue to the top via Book'em Dano and Rap from bolts with two 60 meter ropes.
Two bolts and a few finger sized cams (yellow and gray aliens)and slings if linking.
|By Dimitri Barton|
Aug 16, 2010
I did an extension of this climb, it is not called Book 'em Dano but goes where everyone seems to think Book 'em Dano goes, straight up.
I don't quite understand where the sport/trad comes from??
This was a ground up climb, drilled on the lead.
I did this climb with the idea of making it a one pitch climb, it is around 55 meters.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 20, 2010
Did you name your extension? I think the confusion comes from the supertopo guide.
The Sport/Trad thing comes from an unclear definition of those words. Is the route Sport (bolts for protection) or Trad (Ground up and quite runout?) I think a bit of both applies.
Perhaps you could correct this image by adding in your line in contrast to Book 'em Dano.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
it seems you can go left or right at the second bolt (the crux). left may well be 11b (I didn't go that way but it looked very possible) - the right variation I would put at 10bish which makes for a great link up with bookem dano and keeps the rating to 10d for the both.