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Military Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Fuzzy Undercling 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Jarrard, P. Olenick, R. Turan, M. Williams, 1990
Season: Any
Page Views: 11,577
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (246)
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Lindsay Reareon on Fuzzy. This angle shows the ro...

Description 

A good climb with a technical crux down low, perhaps 2 bolts up, and then on pumpy pockets the rest of the way up with some big moves. Which feels harder to you depends on your skills set. The route was commonly done in flip-flops or hiking boots.
The name of this climb, I believe to be a not-so-subtle euphemism... either that or there was some moss in a pocket in the early days. Regardless, I doubt the latter was the sole motivation behind the route's name.

Location 

From the left branch of the approach trail, you first encounter the "triplet" climbs, Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder, you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these, there is a huge, wide inset with a single bolted line up a slab on the left side, Possum Lips.

Protection 

6 bolts to a fixed anchor. The top anchor has moved a few times over the years to alternately extend the climb and then to reduce drag, back and forth at least once.


Photos of Fuzzy Undercling Slideshow Add Photo
Narissa cruising Fuzzy Undercling at Military Wall...
Narissa cruising Fuzzy Undercling at Military Wall...
Me high up on route. My personal beta for the star...
Me high up on route. My personal beta for the star...
No hands rest
BETA PHOTO: No hands rest
Fuzzy Undercling
Fuzzy Undercling
frank approaching the no-hands rest
frank approaching the no-hands rest
Mike getting some rest before finishing the RP.
Mike getting some rest before finishing the RP.
Erik low on Fuzzy Undercling.
Erik low on Fuzzy Undercling.
Fuzzy Undercling- Sept. 2000
Fuzzy Undercling- Sept. 2000
Dylan Colon sending Fuzzy Undercling.
Dylan Colon sending Fuzzy Undercling.
How to fall...
How to fall...
Fuzzy
Fuzzy
sending Fuzzy
sending Fuzzy
Bouldery moves off the deck. (ca. 2003)
Bouldery moves off the deck. (ca. 2003)
Fuzzy Undercling
Fuzzy Undercling
Tyler Casey Fuzzy Undercling, Crux Start
Tyler Casey Fuzzy Undercling, Crux Start
Fuzzy Undercling.
Fuzzy Undercling.
Thomas taking a well deserved rest
BETA PHOTO: Thomas taking a well deserved rest
Otey at the sweet kneebar rest on Fuzzy...
Otey at the sweet kneebar rest on Fuzzy...
Fuzzy Undercling
Fuzzy Undercling

Comments on Fuzzy Undercling Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 30, 2014
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Mar 18, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I could not get the start of this..above my head, but I will be back for a rematch!!
By 426
Apr 2, 2007

Ultra...classic...
By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Sep 14, 2008

I had heard the route got it's name because there was a bat in an undercling during the first ascent.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 28, 2009

The first move off the ground (no stacked rocks) was at least as hard as any of the moves of the 3 5.12's to the left.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2009

There is a toe out to the right you can hook to solve that start- see if it doesn't feel easier that way. I've done it in flip-flops and hiking boots, but those other routes to the left I always found difficult.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 9, 2009

Apparently there used to be a tree stump near by that you could stand on to skip the very polished and slopey starting holds.
By Phill T
Dec 10, 2010

V-hard boulder crux off the ground to a 5.9 jughaul with a double knee bar no hands rest in the middle. Not sure why this is such a 'must do' route with such inconsistency. Fun for sure and worth getting on, but its no 5 star classic.
By S. Neoh
Dec 10, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I agree with Phill; IMHO, this route is over hyped. I thought Air Ride Equipped and Whipstocking are both better as climbs of approx the same grade.
Stick clip the first bolt as the slick, starting footholds tend to be covered with a coating of sand and dust, due to the route's popularity.
Update: I thought the right flake one could use to clip the sixth bolt from is now a bit loose/weak. One could as easily clip using the left jug just a foot or so over.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 14, 2011

^ +1
By ptrgeorge
From: Houston, TX
Oct 17, 2012

start move was harder than any move on any of the twelves I have tried at the red
By Scorl
Jan 20, 2013

I'll just throw my 2-cents at this route: I'm tall, 6'3", but found that my comfortable start holds were past the "V-hard" boulder move that a few other people have mentioned. Though the crux was still there around the second bolt. I vaguely remember something about a 2 finger pocket and a hard match before the clip. Enjoyable route and the easier than I thought it would be.
By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Mar 3, 2014

Tricky start to a jug haul on massive holds. Fun!

Freshly rebolted a couple of days ago (end Feb '14) with glue-ins with new anchors & chains.
By Andrew G
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

If you're tall enough to reach the pinch from the start stone, this route probably goes at ~5.10+. Otherwise, I think it earns its listed grade of 11b. Once you're past the second bolt, it just turns into a pumpy and fun jug haul on mostly huge holds.