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Nate Dog 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA:  bolted by Nate Bancroft
Page Views: 623
Submitted By: KJP on Mar 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start up Morning Commute till you can reach right to the huge juggy hole, head up, big moves on incut crimpers to a cool rock over sequence that puts you a few moves form the anchor


Protection 

all fixed bolts



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By Scott Minturn
May 1, 2013

The FA of this route was done several years ago by Brandi Proffitt. It was bolted by Nate Bancroft and given the name "Nate Dog" it's been repeated several times by myself and others. I believe she suggested a grade of 12.d

By c roth
May 3, 2013

@Scott. I've no doubt that you're all capable of climbing this line, and assessing it as 12d. However, in Kinchen's defense, this line was the only line sans fixed quickdraws, on that stretch of wall. It didn't have any tick marks, chalk or booty rubber on it; and Kinchen cleaned a fair bit of veneer and dirt off, prior to climbing it. Based on the state it was in, and the amount of tick marks and high impact left on even the undone lines in the cave; it's hard to believe this line was climbed by at least four people prior to Kinchen's ascent. But, sometimes truth is stranger than fiction. Just to confirm we're talking about the same line, it's the route covered in unnecessary hideous green sika minus the botched 1995 era spray paint job that was applied on the majority of the other glue enhanced lines? If there are any other lines that you believe were done that aren't in the MP data base, it might be wise to add them to avoid confusion. Keep in mind, "Enemy D" is no longer what it was, as all the glue enhancement has been removed. It's for all tense and purposes a new undone project. Whether, it's deserving of a new name when someone re-sends it, is perhaps a gray area (no pun intended).

By dvanhorn
May 3, 2013

Before you and your crew post FA information on lines you didnít bolt you should establish contact with the people who did the bolting Ė seems like that would be the professional/responsible way to handle this situation as I donít believe first ascentionists have any responsibility to post their ascents on any website to prevent their FAs from being claimed by other parties. Maybe itís time for an unbiased administrator to step in?

By c roth
May 3, 2013

@dvanhorn, in my defense the only thing I've ever personally added to the data base, is my ascent of FMAG, which I bolted the upper portion of. All I'm saying is, considering ambiguity surrounding the line we're discussing, it's easy to see how a psyched youngster could walk away thinking they'd done a first ascent. In spite of that ambiguity, climbing is an honor sport, and there's no reason to doubt Brandi capable of doing the first ascent. I think the name should be changed to Nate Dog, in the MP database. There has been sporadic contact with those who did the bolting, previous to what we've added. However, it has been frustrating and confusing to get verbal face to face confirmation on things being undone, as was the case with, "Old Man and the Sea (ka)", only to have the contrary be said once it's been added to the data base.