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Way Rambo
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Fuzz 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Goldstein and Fox, 1994
Page Views: 4,534
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 28, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (118)
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Dave near topping out on the long and clean crack ...

Description 

This route is the obvious left-facing corner up and right of approach trail's intersection with the rock. This is 50M right of Way Rambo and just right and facing the popular warm-up, Rochambeau.Climbinto the awkward slot and then up and right to enter the corner. Climb up good jamming at a low angle with some nice ledges for rest here and there. Use these ledges for a complete de-pump to avoid enduro fatigue at the finish. Continue climbing, placing widening gear on the upper section, with good undercling hand-jams. Finish on 3" cams under the right-leaning crack/flake to grab the finishing holds and get into the finger slots to clip the anchors from. Great finish to a great climb. A 70M rope is required to lower off or TR this line.


Protection 

The bottom is an awkward slot that is not well protected. A 1.5" cam in a 'soft' horizontal protects a move 4 meters up that enters the main corner system and gets you to good pro. Get a spot.After that, the route is mostly 1.5"-3", heavy on the 3" pro, incluing at the pumpy crux up top.
Use a 70M rope to get all the way down.



Photos of Fuzz Slideshow Add Photo
Tony on The Fuzz, lower section before it gets steep.
Tony on The Fuzz, lower section before it gets ste...
Alex
Alex
Dave further up 'The Fuzz (5.10)' at Way Rambo Wall in Indian Creek.  Joseffa Meir can be seen warming up just to the right on 'Rochambeau (5.9+).' Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
Dave further up 'The Fuzz (5.10)' at Way Rambo Wal...
Dave cruises 'The Fuzz (5.10)' at Way Rambo Wall in Indian Creek. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
Dave cruises 'The Fuzz (5.10)' at Way Rambo Wall i...
At the anchor bringing K Bev up...
At the anchor bringing K Bev up...
Comments on Fuzz Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 1, 2013
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 8, 2006

Great route. Save some #2 camalots for the steep section at the top! Better yet, save some strength for the final move!

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Mar 24, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Acording to the bloom book it is 130ft....well a 70m got me down with about 2 feet to spare.....also this is MUCH better then the sandy and loose choss pile to the left raushampooooo

By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 1, 2007

Excellent warm-up. My 70m was a little short when I didn't clean the gear on the way down. Straight line to the anchors a 70 is fine.

By Braxtron
From: ...
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Though the start is awkward and not well-protected, I don't think this climb is R-rated.

By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 14, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not even close to being R rated, not even PG, completely safe climb and soft for the grade. I got down with a 60 meter with rope on the ground, not sure what people are saying about 70m ropes not making it down.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not quite, dude. We had a 70m and it was exactly enough. Maybe you were on a different route.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Definitely needs a 70m rope. Watch the sandy smears on top!! Awesome pitch.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 6, 2011

If you got down with a 60, you were definitely on the wrong route. To rap, a 70 is plenty, but to second the route (with the rope running through gear), a 70 may be too short. When I lowered off with my 70 I wound up about 10 feet short of the ground.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

pretty good route. the flake/undercling at the end is a bit unnerving as the rock is pretty thin. the anchors are in hollow rock.

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Oct 13, 2012

Not sure how or why this would be rated "R". The top is #2 camalots, not #3's. 70m rope worked fine for us.

By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Nov 29, 2012

I would like to offer a sincerely, fully, deeply, heart-felt "F" "U" to the jackoff asshat who scratched the graffiti on this route. Keep your scrawling to the city streets, jerk.

By Timmy Foulkes
Feb 15, 2013

Once you reach the hands free rest near the top, the steeper crack starts to slim down, not widen as the description mentions. It goes from 3 Camalots to 3 Friends then on down to 2 Camalots at the top.

By The Blueprint Part Dank
From: FEMA Region VIII
Dec 1, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The "PG-13" start is obviated by a #6 Camalot. The placement is a bit flared, but you can place a #0.5 and #0.75 soon thereafter. The guidebook says to bring #4, and while I was able to place it at one point, it was quite over-cammed and not at all worth taking up route. I would bring more #2's instead. But ideally, you can snag some 2.5's. the upper crack only takes #2's well in a few constrictions you have to really look for, whereas a 2.5 would go pretty much anywhere.