Future Shock 

It's a gorgeous line. If you time it right, there's a free biner for your effort. I have to say thanks to Ben R. for being so relentless about getting us onto this climb. Maybe when I grow up I'll make it from #3 to #4 on the 1st attempt. Until then I'll be more than overjoyed to get my butt repeatedly handed to me. Gear Beta, a Red Bull for the belayer, "keep a weather eye".

A killer climb.... I just sent yesterday (I tried it once last year).... A very slippery and technical climb, and it's not over after bolt #4, though getting there is the crux for sure.... It's cool to have such a hard route with pretty much no hand holds to speak of.... Highly recommended....

Evil Slab!

Love, love, love it despite the fall between the 3rd and 4th bolt. It doesn't end until the chain anchor either, which is not to mention a mantel to the chains. It's great to find a route that is not all about power!

When Al Comeau was trying to free this route, he took a lot of time(remember EB's) . We wanted him to re-name the route "inchworm".

Hell yess.

In Ed Webster's book this route is rated 5.11c and in the Jerry Handren book it gets 5.11a. I think its a really hard one to rate due to its slippery nature. If you hit the right foot holds and nail the right body positions its not too bad, if anything is off, so are you. I called it 5.11c because its hard, but if you are a slab queen (or king) you might just walk it... When i climb it i could care less what they grade it I'm just happy to clip the next bolt or if I'm really lucky, the chains...

Gotta remember the inside out right foot cross step and the crux goes better.

this is by far my favorite .11 i like how it is a more of a technical climb rather that power and pump. i love the cross step movements and the crux is thin and slippery but very fun. anywhere after the second bolt makes a safe fall. i took one whip the first time going through the crux (bolt 3 to 4) and it was by far the safest slab fall i've had with no skidding on the slab.

Nice ! Always gotta remember to get to the belay before the water seeps get you. i love that the only real hold on the route is the belay ledge

The falls on this are suprisingly fun and safe after the second bolt. There is no longer a second pitch. Bolts were chopped.

Anyone know if the second pitch was ever climbed free?

Chopped ? Really ? I almost got P2 free around '90 or so. It will go for sure, 13a or so.
Maybe they fell out

You too John? I came within about 35' of freeing that second pitch myself...

A bit closer to 3.5' really.very close but no go.