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Oklahoma
> Wichita Mountai…
> Charon's Gardens
> Lost Dome Region
> Lost Dome Main Area
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 43
votes
Routes in Lost Dome Main Area
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500 Roses S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Baptists on the Rampage S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Blades of Steel S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Come and Get Your Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crack a Lo Lo T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dance Hall Girls T A3 |
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Drop Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dutchmen, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Fear of the Right T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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For A Rocker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Gong Show T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hand Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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La segunda esquina T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last Rites T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lost Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost My Religion T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Made in the Shade S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Not So Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Papa Was a Rolling Stone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rap Bolters from Hell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Show Stopper TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slightly Lost T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slime of the Century S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Steep Show T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sugar Momma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thankful Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Turkey Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Duane Raleigh |
| Page Views: | 3,541 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.
Location
Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".
Protection
Normal Refuge rack. One bolt (previously a fixed pin) on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.
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