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Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) T 
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Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Larry Fuson?
Page Views: 1,096
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Steven Charles pulls the crux move over the fixed ...
  • This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.


    Location 

    Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".


    Protection 

    Normal Refuge rack. One fixed pin on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.



    Photos of Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) Slideshow Add Photo
    Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route
    BETA PHOTO: Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route
    Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidently falling on it like he always does :)
    Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidentl...
    Dan Schuerch at the top of pitch 1.  Pin marked with an X.
    BETA PHOTO: Dan Schuerch at the top of pitch 1. Pin marked wi...
    Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevitable fall onto old man pin.
    Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevit...
    Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the undercling works pretty well.
    BETA PHOTO: Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the un...
    Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson's Folly.  Gear is possible, just keep your eyes open.
    Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson'...
    photo by andy chasteen
    photo by andy chasteen
    Comments on Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Andrew Tower
    From: Golden, CO
    Jul 2, 2007
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    or you can always rap to the the anchors for Rap Bolters and Whipping post, clip in and then rap again.

    By Les Malan
    Jan 22, 2012
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    It is possible to double rap down on a 60m rope. You just have to swing out wide to climber's left and come down by the tree near Slime of the Century. Simul-rap is probably the best option to maximize rope stretch. I did it yesterday and it's very convenient.

    By C. Archibald
    Dec 16, 2012

    The pin will hold a 10-12 foot fall. I "tested" it yesterday. This can also be climbed as one long pitch. Rope drag isn't bad because there is almost no gear on P2. We also rapped from the P2 anchor to the ground with a 60 meter rope. It was just long enough.