Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)  5.9-

895 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Larry Fuson? Submitted By:  Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Dan Schuerch at the top of pitch 1. Pin marked wi...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>> Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>> Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.

Location 

Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".

Protection 

Normal Refuge rack. One fixed pin on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.

Photos of Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) Slideshow

Add Photo

Jordan Ramey before he tests the pin, by accidentl...	Different angle of Jordan preparing for his inevit...	Jordan Ramey on the chimney second pitch of Fuson'...
BETA PHOTO: Brian Water leading, good shot of the whole route	BETA PHOTO: Kate Chandler on the crux of Fuson's Folly, the un...	BETA PHOTO: Steven Charles pulls the crux move over the fixed ...