Further On Up The Road
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 140'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Wyatt Payne and Kristi Brackett|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||143|
|Submitted By: ||Wyatt Payne on Jun 3, 2013|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
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Who Stole The Bolts? BOS Variation, direct finish. Climb p11 of BOS as usual but move straight up and left of the final face bolt on pitch 11 to link an all gear pitch 12 at ~10b/c to the same fixed summit anchor of BOS. This is a much more direct line than original p12 and far more serious as there is big fall potential and some lose blocks here and there. This should help to alleviate some of the confusion people have had in the p11 and p12 area of BOS. The following description is part of a letter sent to Robert Price and James Garrett about the route with Robert's reply.
At the low angle ledge Beneath the huge hueco on p11, go slightly up and left into the weakness on this side of the hueco. Pull through a bunch of steep runnout climbing that tends to wander a bit left and right to stay on the best rock available and place pro once in awhile. Ultimately finish through a shallow dihedral to the left side of the summit block. Be careful of lose blocks along the way and where your rope is running. It's quite an exciting way to finish up a long and already heads up climb.
Sounds like a balls-to-the–wall full on new variation to me. Amazing to lead that terrain on gear and find reliable rock. Plenty to do out there.
Begins at the top of pitch 11 on BOS.
NO BOLTS. Roughly 4 fairly trustworthy gear placements. Aliens blue-gray, 1 (#0.75-1) BD C4.