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Unsorted Routes:

Funny Farm 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steven Lucarelli, Carrie Finn (Oct. 2010)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,372
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2010
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Stemming out to the finger crack on Funny Farm.

Description 

Funny Farm is another great line, adding to the growing list at the Cliffs of Insanity. Start with fingers in a corner that gradually tapers down to tips with pods and then nothing. Clip a bolt on the right face and make suprisingly tricky and sequential moves to get through the crux. Continue up hands and big hands for another 25' until it is possible to stem out right to a nice finger crack on the right wall. Steep fingers with occasional pods for your hands and feet will take you to the anchor. This route may be a classic, check it out.


Location 

This route is located 4 feet left of Iocane Powder's start.


Protection 

The following gear is in Camalots:(1).02, (2).03, (3).04, (4).05, (1).75, (2)#2, (2)#3, and there is one bolt. Anchor is two bolts with chains. Save some of the small stuff for the top.



Photos of Funny Farm Slideshow Add Photo
A close up of the crux corner with the finger crack visable above me.
A close up of the crux corner with the finger crac...
Wayne sending the 2ed ascent
Wayne sending the 2ed ascent
Comments on Funny Farm Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Bradbury
Oct 18, 2010

A great route with a unique crux! Destined to be a classic!

By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Oct 14, 2011

First off, definitely a unique and fun route! Kind of a cross between Zion and Red Rocks style.

The rack recommendation is a bit off! I was glad to have even smaller cams (.1 Camalot, 00 TCU, etc) and most people will want (3) .75 Camalots, for sure.

This route will get wicked sandy after rain. It was absolutely filthy when I first went up it...not free-climbable. After a serious brushing, it was quite enjoyable. Kudos!

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 23, 2012

Got the onsight, but had to fight with apx 20lbs of sand!...Fun route