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Looking down the entire route from P2 belay/rap st...
This is a good route to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines.
Start 150' right of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
buttress at two short left-facing corners capped at 10' by an overhang. This is 25' left of Bitchy Virgin
, about a 10-minute walk from Uberfall.
P1: Starts with a little overhang 10' up (big cam). From there, head for the left-facing corner, then up a runout face and generally left to a belay ledge. 5.5, 90'.
Variation: after the left-facing corner, meander right to belay on a ledge, aiming for the second pitch of Bitchy Virgin
which climbs the pretty face above at 5.6.
P2: Negotiate around right-facing flakes to the GT Ledge. 5.5, 90'.
P3: 30' and not worth it.
This climb isn't done all that often, so it has some grass on the bigger ledges and lichen here and there. Some flakes are a bit thin, so climb gently.
Can be a bit runout in sections. I placed mostly cams in horizontals and avoided placing pro behind flakes. Best to have two ropes to rappel from the GT ledge; there are sub-optimal intermediate anchors.
Greg Padley (anyone know him? lost touch...)
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 3, 2006
Decent route if you're looking for a little adventure feel. Kind of dirty, no chalk highway, no fixed pro, tenuous flakes. Aside from first 10', climb is very much in your favor (either straight up or less than vertical). Good to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines.
From: New York, NY
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Link both pitches together.