Very exposed and scary start. Hand traversing from right to left across a steep wall to the start of the crack. Get your #1 TCU in and then start up the funky crack. More face climbing than crack.
many wired nuts and small cams from 0.2 to 2 inches. def. need a #1 TCU or equivalent
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
FFC is an excellent route in my opinion. After the committing initial traverse (best climbed quickly, since it's not too hard unless you hang out and get pumped), the remainder of the pitch is fun, sustained (and well-protected) climbing on excellent stone.
From the bolt anchor at the top of the route, one can easily traverse right on a large ledge to continue with either Lycra Sheath or the second pitch of LTD, making for two great pitches of 5.9 - 5.10c climbing.