Funky Bolt 

You can get down with 1 rope on this climb by using the 2 bolt anchor on the sport route to climbers' left.

Led this one the other day, and I have a different perspective.Very difficult to place pro down low, due to the lieback, however, you can slot a hex in the obvious constriction. Above the bolts, the gear is predominately large nut size, and I started running out, that is if you go all the way to the slung horn, which I recommend. Very runout at the finish, but also very easy.

But as Guy says, use 1 rope, and do 2 rappels.

Good route solid for the grade

The "R" part happens at the top above all difficulties on terrain 5.5 or easier. Great route. From what little I recall, after the initial weird move off the deck, you can jam the crack (which becomes progressively more flaring) to the "funky bolts".

A little more than I bargained for for my warm-up route. Solid for the grade. I found it hard to protect the upper section, even before the 5.5 slab. Long pitch, 170-180 feet. Lieback? I didn't at all.

Actually, there are two bolts on the route but the first one is probably the name for the route. It is a beat SMC hanger with half of the bolt shaft hanging out and bent. A foot higher or so is a better bolt. Although the route goes higher to a slung horn you can move off left to use intermediate chains for TR and easy rappel. We had 70m cords and had no problem using 1 cord. A 60m should work, but beware.

Susan

Fun route, but be solid at the grade. Not recommended for budding 5.9 leaders.

A Heady Lead especially up top. Worth the trip to the Horn. I recommend, going out left at the top. I went straight up found one last potential placement as passed it as my stance was above it and then cut out right onto lichen cover slab, Sketchy!

I was only able to get a few pieces of gear in the lower half that I actually felt confident about. The fact that the two bolts are so close to each other, and that one is old and badly bent tells me that someone probably took a huge whipper off the runout section and gave the older bolt hell. There's room for bigger gear on the second half. I threw in a #1 Camalot before making the 40ft runout to the horn. If you want there are a few small chicken heads that you can sling on the runout, but they're not needed.

my first 5.9 gear lead at the city. offsets were good for the flare at the bottom. very cool though and highly recommended.

Similar experience a few years back with this being one of my first 5.9 gear lines. Feel very strongly the R needs to be removed

Today I saw a guy break his ankle on this route by blowing the stemming moves above the bolt and hitting the 'slab' below. Ouch. On a more positive note, the lower crack, while flared in places, protects well.

Great route! The bottom protects well just be sure not to commit to a lie back, and screw yourself out of stances. I used 2 stoppers (DMM offsets), and a the rest protects well with a single rack up the 3 inches. I traversed over to the chains for the slab to the left so take my gear beta with a grain of salt. The funky bolt looks like it may have been drilled with haste on lead, and seems to be at an angle instead of straight in to the rock.

As a taller climber I found this route to be pretty stout. Moving up the crux past the bolt required some weird back-step & knee-drop action. My shorter partners just stemmed up without too much hassle.

This thing was fantastic, probably the best 5.9 we did at the City. Do yourself a favor, don't traverse to the chains at mid height, there is still 60+ feet of worthy climbing to do. The whole route sews up if you keep your eyes open except for the finish which is well below the crux grade, so no R rating is warranted. 2 raps to the ground with a stop at those sport route chains.