High on the route, near the crux. March 2011. (Vie...
About 100 yds west of the Chunky Monkey-LaCholla Jackson zoo is a tall section of very good rock. Funkdemental is the furthest east of these. This is great fun route that reminded me a lot of "The Sinks".
Start above a cave-like hollow and up the hillside to the right, in the same place as Poquito Mas. Watch out for cactus here especially when you pull your rope. Clip the 2nd and 3rd bolts with a long sling or you'll probably run into a lot of rope drag up higher. Then start the fun stuff. Traverse left around the top of the cave on HUGE huecos and up more of the same to a stance under a fair-sized bulge. The crux is a long reach over the bulge to a good edge. The rest of the route climbs the arete using holds on both sides to another stance and some more great pockets to the anchors.
10 bolts, a couple of long runners, anchors at top.
AC, just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route. This is one of the best easy 5.11s at Shelf. If you are tall, you can bypass the use of the "secret" hold and reach the large jug by staying left of the arete at the bulge.
" just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route."
So 3 or 4 feet to the side of a bolt is off route? I thought that if you are following a bolt line, anything within reach is on route... if not, the route falls under the category of "contrived".
I did this route this past weekend, and I have to agree with the AC on this one. At the "crux", I climbed the obvious easier ground just to the right of the bolt and traversed back left to the next bolt. I realized after doing this that I had probably gone "off-route", so I downclimbed and did the crux the "right" way. It seemed slightly contrived.
In my opinion, a classic sport route combines good climbing with an inspiring line that doesn't avoid obvious natural features. Maybe other people don't include the last factor in their definition of "classic". There are tons of 2-3 star sport climbs at Shelf, but according to the rating system on this site, one star sounds about right: worth doing, but for myself, probably not worth the effort to repeat.
Secret hold? Shit, I didn't find any secret hold! I think I went the easy way and still thought it was 11a. Man, now I realize why I have trouble with those 5.9s.
This discussion makes me realize how people see and climb routes so differently. Quite interesting.
I think most of the nearby routes pretty much suck, but then they get 2-3 stars and then this one gets one from some folks simply because it offers the opportunity to go gardening (or is that too far right?).
I like the climb, but 11b? What happened to the 10d grade that was in the Rock and Ice supplement guide from years back? I thought that was right on. What's with a lot of the grades that got "bumped" up a notch or two in the Cactus Guide.
10d, straight up the bolts. 2-3 stars. Well worth repeating.
Very fun regardless of comments above - this is a great warm up.
By Adrian Hill Dec 15, 2005 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Around 12/04/05, the nut holding the hanger on the upper of the two bolts at the bulge was loose. I managed to tighten it by hand, but take care with it. If you're in the area with a wrench, you could generate some good karma by going up and tightening it.
On Sunday, 10-28-07, there was a mean little rattlesnake that had taken up residence below the big rock that you land on when you lower off this climb. Unfortunately, no one saw it until after it had bit a dog. (BTW, after an overnight stay at the vet, the dog is okay)