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Funkdemental 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Thompson & John Welchhans, 2000
Page Views: 3,259
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jun 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (151)
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High on the route, near the crux. March 2011. (Vie...

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Description 

About 100 yds west of the Chunky Monkey-LaCholla Jackson zoo is a tall section of very good rock. Funkdemental is the furthest east of these. This is great fun route that reminded me a lot of "The Sinks".

Start above a cave-like hollow and up the hillside to the right, in the same place as Poquito Mas. Watch out for cactus here especially when you pull your rope. Clip the 2nd and 3rd bolts with a long sling or you'll probably run into a lot of rope drag up higher. Then start the fun stuff. Traverse left around the top of the cave on HUGE huecos and up more of the same to a stance under a fair-sized bulge. The crux is a long reach over the bulge to a good edge. The rest of the route climbs the arete using holds on both sides to another stance and some more great pockets to the anchors.


Protection 

10 bolts, a couple of long runners, anchors at top.



Photos of Funkdemental Slideshow Add Photo
Credits for the picture go to Mike! Thanks!
Credits for the picture go to Mike! Thanks!
Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
Chuck w/ helpful crossover beta at the routes crux.
Chuck w/ helpful crossover beta at the routes crux...
Funkemental 2.
Funkemental 2.
Funkemental 1.
Funkemental 1.
Cactus Cliff - Right (1). <br /> <br />The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall. <br /> <br />La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1).

The Price is Right is n...
Pulling the crux.
Pulling the crux.
Tristan Hechtel on Funkdemental.
Tristan Hechtel on Funkdemental.
Funky view of Funkdemental.
Funky view of Funkdemental.
One of my favorites at Shelf.
One of my favorites at Shelf.
Mark Calder rapping off Funkademental at the end of the day.
Mark Calder rapping off Funkademental at the end o...
This guy is currently camped out under the landing zone of Funkdemental when you lower off....
This guy is currently camped out under the landing...
Comments on Funkdemental Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 20, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2002

Kind of contrived, since you can easily get around the crux by climbing on the arete 3 feet to the right of the bulge. Cool position, though.

By Edward Jenner
May 27, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Excellent route. Overhanging jugs, deadpoint crux and pockets really mix things up.

By Mic Fairchild
From: Boulder
Oct 28, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

One of the many good routes here. Have your belayer unclip your first draw after you move left around the corner. Don't reveal the secret hold in your beta!

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 29, 2003

AC, just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route. This is one of the best easy 5.11s at Shelf. If you are tall, you can bypass the use of the "secret" hold and reach the large jug by staying left of the arete at the bulge.

By Greaser
Oct 29, 2003

I like the varied nature of this route. It climbs better than it looks and progressively gets more difficult as you climb it.

By Joe Collins
Oct 29, 2003

" just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route."

So 3 or 4 feet to the side of a bolt is off route? I thought that if you are following a bolt line, anything within reach is on route... if not, the route falls under the category of "contrived".

I did this route this past weekend, and I have to agree with the AC on this one. At the "crux", I climbed the obvious easier ground just to the right of the bolt and traversed back left to the next bolt. I realized after doing this that I had probably gone "off-route", so I downclimbed and did the crux the "right" way. It seemed slightly contrived.

In my opinion, a classic sport route combines good climbing with an inspiring line that doesn't avoid obvious natural features. Maybe other people don't include the last factor in their definition of "classic". There are tons of 2-3 star sport climbs at Shelf, but according to the rating system on this site, one star sounds about right: worth doing, but for myself, probably not worth the effort to repeat.

By Edward Jenner
Nov 3, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Secret hold? Shit, I didn't find any secret hold! I think I went the easy way and still thought it was 11a. Man, now I realize why I have trouble with those 5.9s.

This discussion makes me realize how people see and climb routes so differently. Quite interesting.

I think most of the nearby routes pretty much suck, but then they get 2-3 stars and then this one gets one from some folks simply because it offers the opportunity to go gardening (or is that too far right?).

By Kirk Woerner
Nov 5, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

If you went gardening, you were not on Funkdamental. This route starts in an overhang, swings out left, and goes straight up clean rock.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 28, 2004

I like the climb, but 11b? What happened to the 10d grade that was in the Rock and Ice supplement guide from years back? I thought that was right on. What's with a lot of the grades that got "bumped" up a notch or two in the Cactus Guide.

10d, straight up the bolts. 2-3 stars. Well worth repeating.

Rob

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 24, 2005

Very fun regardless of comments above - this is a great warm up.

By Adrian Hill
Dec 15, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Gear Alert

Around 12/04/05, the nut holding the hanger on the upper of the two bolts at the bulge was loose. I managed to tighten it by hand, but take care with it. If you're in the area with a wrench, you could generate some good karma by going up and tightening it.

By Will Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2007

11a seemed about right for this excelent climb. Great exposure up wild holds and pockets. I didn't feel that it was contrived as long as you stayed on the arete proper. 4 stars.

By Kelbad
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 31, 2007

On Sunday, 10-28-07, there was a mean little rattlesnake that had taken up residence below the big rock that you land on when you lower off this climb. Unfortunately, no one saw it until after it had bit a dog. (BTW, after an overnight stay at the vet, the dog is okay)

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 18, 2008

Fun route, but I don't recall it being contrived or particularly difficult. Maybe it was a height thing? Definitely worth doing if you are over here and an easy tick for the aspiring 11 leader.

By germsauce
Apr 14, 2011

I'm still trying to figure out what move was supposed to be 5.11.... I'm no superman, but what's the opposite of sandbag?

By Matt M Jones
Feb 20, 2012

I agree with Germsauce. I found it to be easier than an 11, but I am also 6'4'". Awesome route, my favorite at Shelf for the moment.