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Fun small holds and interesting/terrible feet?
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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 12, 2012
OMG, I winz!!!
I finally have my home wall up and I am slowly filling in some of my hold style gaps. What are everyone's favorite small holds (I <3 crimps) and interesting feet? My angles are ~10 deg, big 30deg and a big roof. Is the DRCC stuff worth the money?

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Feb 12, 2012
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
E-grips makes the best small crimps IMO.

The best of their bigger crimps are the "Comfy Crimps", and the "Aussie Crimps" are good too, but they aren't strictly crimps.

For smaller crimps, get the "Midnight Crimps", or the "2-Tex Pure Crimps"

For the next level, completely vicious crimps, get "Ian's Tribal". These include some non-crims as well, but the crimps are ridiculous.

Small feet are much harder. I've been eyeing the e-grips "buttons" but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. Entreprise makes some good edges called "Super tweaks" that I like. They're complex so require good accuray when placing your toe on the hold. I like this set from Atomik. They require precise placement, and they force you to maintain core tension while moving off the holds.

Good luck and let us know if you find anything sick!

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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Feb 12, 2012
Artist Tears P3
Chris,

I have the set from Atomik that Mono linked and I'm very happy with them. I also have some of their screw on holds for weird places as well. Build quality and value for money is good as well.

Cheers

John

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By low.key.og
Feb 13, 2012
I LOVE Voodoo feet... voodooholds.com/catalog/item/7...

Not sure about the quality of these new pours..all the voodoo holds I have are a hundred years old.

I am not a fan of the E grips crimps when I need something bad..most of them are in-cut and just too good, and if you love crimps then you might be underwhelmed with all but the midnight crimps. The comfy crimps are amazing on steep terrain but you can get away with some pretty bad holds on 30 degrees. They seem to have a gap to fill between their Slab/10degree crimps and their roof crimps.

I love Teknik holds. Great quality in my experience and very usable. Aphids, midges and meatlets are my go-to crimps.

I used DRCC holds a bunch when they first came out. They didn't really stand out to me and I rarely go to them now. If you like the visual impact of them then I guess they are worth the money..if not, I would just stick with the usual suspects.

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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Feb 13, 2012
blah
summitlabs.net/holds/artistic/...
these are some of the most tricky feet I have ever used

summitlabs.net/holds/technical...
These dual tech crimps are small enough on a steep wall to make great feet

summitlabs.net/holds/realistic...
some great holds in this pack

I know and have worked with this guy and he makes great hold out of his garage and will totally give you a deal

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Feb 13, 2012
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
low.key.og wrote:
I am not a fan of the E grips crimps when I need something bad..most of them are in-cut and just too good


Check out the 2-Tex Pure Crimps and Ian's Tribal. The 2-Tex include a number of neutral edges, and a number of posive edges that are less than 1/4" deep.

Ian's tribal includes a wide variety of shapes but inlcudes 2-3 ridiculously thin crimps. These are the most difficult-to-grip edges I have. Even the bigger edges in that set are good for underclings/sidepulls on a 30 degree wall.

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By Joe Kreidel
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 13, 2012
Monomaniac wrote:
Check out the 2-Tex Pure Crimps and Ian's Tribal.


I've been on the look out for some tough crimps. How would those work on a 50 degree wall? A little too small, or just about right?

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Feb 13, 2012
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
If by 50 degree you mean 5 deg steeper than 45, than I don't think those would be a good choice unless Dave Graham routinely trains at your house.

I would recommend the Comfy Crimps or "Hueco Flakes", also by E-grips.

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By Wade J.
From Boulder, CO
Feb 13, 2012
winter aid climbing
While I haven't bought any foot holds from DRCC, I do have some of their crimps and like them a lot. I have a set of their side crimps which are a lot of fun and have a great texture, and a few other misc holds. The ones I bought aren't super fancy looking, but they are a welcome addition to the wall. DRCC is a pretty small company with some awesome people, definitely worth checking out.

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By Jon Marek
From SLC
Feb 13, 2012
gossamer
my vote goes to Nicros "little edges that could"

Also, I love synrock for my home wall, by far the most comfortable holds I have ever used.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 17, 2012
OMG, I winz!!!
Lots of good stuff here, thanks guys. Looks like I have something to spend my birthday money on.

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