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Climbs up on natural and manufactured holds up the right facing ramp/crack system. Lots of different fun movements make this climb the best at the quarry for the grade. The crux lies a little bit after the 5th bolt where it joins up with the climb to the right. To clean it top rope the other end up and un-clip as you go.
Anchors are shared with the 5.9 to the right so you can setup a toprope for that climb via this route.
Starts on the slab section in the rust colored area to the far left of the main wall. Follows the obvious line up to the anchors.
7 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings.
BETA PHOTO: Clean picture of the climb.
Feb 20, 2012
Some of the flakes to the left that you'd want to undercling between the first and second bolts are loose. I should have marked them. A brush would be helpful--still kind of dirty (due to being newer and/or recent rainfall).
Feb 21, 2012
I went lower with my feet in the seam near the bottom of the beta picture and my hands near the bolt line. It's a pretty solid way to do it but not as secure as going up with the underclings I would imagine. There is also a glued in bridge between the third and fourth bolt that should probably not be stepped on.
|By C Miller|
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
A bit scrappy but it does climb the easiest path through some interesting terrain. Worth doing at least once to marvel at the rock engineering.