|By Arlo F Niederer|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This climb is called "Muscle Beach" in Zach Orenczak's "The Voo" guide. Another example of a confusing name change from the FA toprope to the bolted sport climb. (Several of the climbs on Mountain Project use the FA ascent names, not the names given after the route was bolted).
Ther crux is near the ground, a strenuous pull/dyno on a good hold over a bulge to another good hold.
The next roof is interesting, probably 5.9+/5.10a.
A "new" set of anchors is in the water groove about 10 feet below the prominent roof above the climb. The right bolt was a little loose, the left bolt has a thin hanger, not an anchor hanger. It has turnbuckle links to attach the rope to but not really equalizing. Also, it has what appear to be aluminum rappel rings.
These anchors are where the second pitch of "Five Days One Summer" starts. As an alternative, continue up the groove to the roof, where there are anchors at the top of "Misirlou."