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Routes in Willow Springs South
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Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cereal Killer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chutes and Ladders T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Count Chocula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Pin-etration T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geezer's Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gimpy Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Headless Chocolate Bunny T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Honey Combs S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Little Black Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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New Hips Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pillar Talk T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Senior Moment T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wheat Thick T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Joe Herbst & Friends 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,655 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Flava Flav on Mar 6, 2014 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start in a small choss cave, stemming up on a few good edges and smears to a burly move with an odd under cling to a tiny crack/corner for balance. Sandbagged, but with a #5 cam you can figure it out without commitment. Follow the crack starting without feet, or go right over questionable rock to the next ledge. The occasional solid jug gives you some security while stepping on marginal rock. Build belay in the cave, as the trees are looking fairly shabby. On the next pitch, stem up and follow the corner with odd placements, a short section with laybacks on varnished jugs takes you to a ledge with a big tree. Belay from crack behind tree.
The bad: loose rock laying everywhere, and loose rock on route.
The good: interesting figuring out the crux beginning, and pushing through the juggy laybacky section up top, "interesting" descent.
The bad: loose rock laying everywhere, and loose rock on route.
The good: interesting figuring out the crux beginning, and pushing through the juggy laybacky section up top, "interesting" descent.
Location
Large corner/chamber to the right of Nadia's Nine, not so visible from Lost Creek Parking Area. Go left at trail intersection, follow wash for a bit, join up with the red trail that follows the cliffs. As the cliff starts to turn, you should see the first big corner. Take the path of least resistance up to it.
Getting down was interesting. Unrope at big tree, scramble up the harder than expected hueco crack to climber's right with bush, then scramble up around the rock with a tunnel under it, then down to the right to a stout short tree with a cord in place. One rappel down past a dead tree with a nylon sling to a good platform will lead you to a bushy albeit easy scramble down past a very large tree. 60m would be fine, rope surprisingly pulls easy. Rapping from here is unnecessary, just be careful of all the desert plants. Continue 50 or so yards to the right to the start of the climb.
Getting down was interesting. Unrope at big tree, scramble up the harder than expected hueco crack to climber's right with bush, then scramble up around the rock with a tunnel under it, then down to the right to a stout short tree with a cord in place. One rappel down past a dead tree with a nylon sling to a good platform will lead you to a bushy albeit easy scramble down past a very large tree. 60m would be fine, rope surprisingly pulls easy. Rapping from here is unnecessary, just be careful of all the desert plants. Continue 50 or so yards to the right to the start of the climb.
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