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Fully Automatic is a fun, bouldery alternate start to the trad climb, Semi-Automatic. Luke Childers placed the bolts on the line on the arete in 2011, which, after the 3rd/4th bolt, the climbing trends directly into the dihedral, and not straight up the arete (and the moves on the upper arete are HARD). So, I decided to link the start of this bolted route to the finish of the trad line, creating Fully Automatic.
Power past four bolts on the burly, slopey underclings and crappy smears on the overhanging wall that slopes away from you, making the smears that much worse. Work over to the arete and turn the corner into the dihedral. The initial boulder problem is very sequential, and I recommend a stick clip for the first two bolts, otherwise you could have a bad fall.
This is at the Armory, just across the tyrol, betweeen Fission aka Ken T'ank and Semi-Automatic.
4 quickdraws for the bolts, and a few finger-sized cams (I used #0.5 and #0.75 Camalots and a gray Alien).
On the send. I know it's a crappy pic, it is a st...
|Comments on Fully Automatic
|By Luke Childers|
Oct 6, 2012
Nice work, Jason! Great idea climbing it into the corner. Great mixed line!!