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Routes in The Armory
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Diggler, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fission aka Ken T'ank S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fully Automatic T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Gauntlet, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Handicapable S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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I Don't Know What It's Called, I Just Know The Sound It Makes When It Takes A Man's Life (aka Beretta) S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Ken T'ank Low Start S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Knight Walker S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Off the Couch S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overhangover, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Semi -Automatic T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Siberian Express S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | J. Baker |
| Page Views: | 2,425 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | half-pad-mini-jug on Oct 4, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
Fully Automatic is a fun, bouldery alternate start to the trad climb, Semi-Automatic. Luke Childers placed the bolts on the line on the arete in 2011, which, after the 3rd/4th bolt, the climbing trends directly into the dihedral, and not straight up the arete (and the moves on the upper arete are HARD). So, I decided to link the start of this bolted route to the finish of the trad line, creating Fully Automatic.
Power past four bolts on the burly, slopey underclings and crappy smears on the overhanging wall that slopes away from you, making the smears that much worse. Work over to the arete and turn the corner into the dihedral. The initial boulder problem is very sequential, and I recommend a stick clip for the first two bolts, otherwise you could have a bad fall.
Power past four bolts on the burly, slopey underclings and crappy smears on the overhanging wall that slopes away from you, making the smears that much worse. Work over to the arete and turn the corner into the dihedral. The initial boulder problem is very sequential, and I recommend a stick clip for the first two bolts, otherwise you could have a bad fall.
Location
This is at the Armory, just across the tyrol, betweeen Fission aka Ken T'ank and Semi-Automatic.
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