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The Black Hole
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Upper Wisdom 

Full Wisdom aka Wisdom Simulator 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: ????
Page Views: 2,444
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Luke Childers pulling into the crux section of "Wi...

Description 

Full Wisdom is a classic endurance testpiece at Morrison. The problem starts under at the far right of the Black Hole, (under the leaning rock) and it traverses up the rock on the overhanging traverse above the Black Hole. Begin on a big hold and move up on easy rock (jugs) until you will find the obvious crux.... A wicked section with a pissy little crimper that will work you. Crank through this section and finish what is known as Upper Wisdom. If you wish, you can start above this crimper crux for the V3 version Upper Wisdom. Classic problem and a good challenge.

Protection 

A bouldering pad is nice....


Comments on Full Wisdom aka Wisdom Simulator Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Brejcha
Apr 8, 2003

Great for endurance, try climbing it then down climbing it, really fun stuff.
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
May 24, 2006
rating: V8 7B

Not a bad idea to have 2 pads in both cruxes, and a person to spot at both locations as well. The lower crux is crimpy and technical, with possible knee scumming, toe hooking, etc. Watch the dab!
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Aug 10, 2008
rating: V7 7A+

One of the best routes here. Get this one wired and run laps to get really strong....
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Sep 5, 2008

See..now this is what I like to read! Some very funny stuff here! " pissy little crimper that will work you"..Hilarious!.."run laps to get really strong" yep, I would certainly think so!
By Jeff Broussard
Nov 10, 2011

I was up here with Jim Garber the day of the Fourmile fire (getting the tour from him), and he said he named the problem as he was also working on "The Wisdom" in Eldo at the same time and felt this was good practice for the climbs 2nd pitch. I wonder if he knows who did the FA; perhaps him since he had the naming rights.