Full strength daisy chain as anchor
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A friends asked me my thoughts on using a full strength daisy chain on bolted anchor multi-pitch climbs. Two lockers on each end, clipped into the bolt, and a third locker on whichever daisy chain link in the middle is most equalized option. This would be much like using two slings with a tied masterpoint. I dont see an issue with this but am I missing something? |
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What strength is a full strength daisy? I've not used one that has more than a one person weight limit. |
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I assume you're talking about a PAS. Then, yes: people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/hig… |
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I'm certain a few companies make them but the grivel daisy and the metolius pas come to mind. |
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PAS systems are fine in anchors, assuming that they are actually full strength and set up appropriately. In my opnion however, thay are bulky and help very little. Especially if your heading up an objective and you know you have bolted anchors, a double length sling will always be my go to. |
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Did someone say, "PAS"? |
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Max Forbes wrote: Please god lets not let this start into a war on the pros and cons of PAS's.It's out of our hands now. The wildfire hath been sparked. There is no stopping this juggernaut. Five pages. |
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No no no. I'm out. |
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Doesn't seem redundant enough for me. If one loop goes there's a good chance you will go with it. |
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It's a reasonably common approach in Europe where a pair of super solid bolts in solid rock is the norm. |
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Brad Stewart wrote:Doesn't seem redundant enough for me. If one loop goes there's a good chance you will go with it.Same if your belay loop goes. In the case of the PAS, the loops are exactly identical to the belay loops on Metolius' harnesses. I dont have a problem with the OP's setup. Seems fine and I would prefer that over two quickdraws IMO. I would use an autolocker on the materpoint though. |