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Full strength daisy chain as anchor

Original Post
Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

A friends asked me my thoughts on using a full strength daisy chain on bolted anchor multi-pitch climbs. Two lockers on each end, clipped into the bolt, and a third locker on whichever daisy chain link in the middle is most equalized option. This would be much like using two slings with a tied masterpoint. I dont see an issue with this but am I missing something?

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

What strength is a full strength daisy? I've not used one that has more than a one person weight limit.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

I assume you're talking about a PAS. Then, yes: people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/hig…

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

I'm certain a few companies make them but the grivel daisy and the metolius pas come to mind.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

PAS systems are fine in anchors, assuming that they are actually full strength and set up appropriately. In my opnion however, thay are bulky and help very little. Especially if your heading up an objective and you know you have bolted anchors, a double length sling will always be my go to.

Please god lets not let this start into a war on the pros and cons of PAS's.

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

Did someone say, "PAS"?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Max Forbes wrote: Please god lets not let this start into a war on the pros and cons of PAS's.
It's out of our hands now. The wildfire hath been sparked. There is no stopping this juggernaut. Five pages.
Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

No no no. I'm out.
giphy.com/gifs/tu6LYcwt1lx7…

Darbley Sterway · · Aspen · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 5

Doesn't seem redundant enough for me. If one loop goes there's a good chance you will go with it.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

It's a reasonably common approach in Europe where a pair of super solid bolts in solid rock is the norm.

Carry the PAS around your shoulders with the lockers and the Reverso all attached. This saves a lot of time. A nice thing about the idea is that it gives a lot of clip-in points for sacks, cameras and water bottles. Because of this I term it a "workstation in the sky".

If the bolts are reasonably close to each other, then clip one of the bolts with the last-but-one link in the PAS. Then place a carabiner on the last link as a Jesus piece.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Brad Stewart wrote:Doesn't seem redundant enough for me. If one loop goes there's a good chance you will go with it.
Same if your belay loop goes. In the case of the PAS, the loops are exactly identical to the belay loops on Metolius' harnesses.

I dont have a problem with the OP's setup. Seems fine and I would prefer that over two quickdraws IMO. I would use an autolocker on the materpoint though.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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