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Full Steam Ahead 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall/spring
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Oct 12, 2010
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Topo

Description 

Full Steam Ahead firmly supplants, Three Sheets to the Wind, which was a route I established 10 years ago, but never finished the direct way I wanted it to. Full Steam Ahead takes on the direct line to the cap roof, and then out left.

Start out by climbing up underclings, sidepulls, and flake jugs to the first bolt (a blue TCU can be placed lower). Figure out the low crux which involves a big, tenuous, undercling move to a very high jug, and then move past a second bolt. Work your way up and right to a very thin seam. Your first good wires will be a little ways after the second bolt. Summon your technical side, and move up, and then left to another seam placing difficult wires and a blind orange TCU. Pull the second crux, and continue edging up, and firing in thin wires until you get to below the roof. Clip a bolt here, and exit out the left side of the roof passing a few more gear options, jugs, and finally the anchors...

I think if you lead Lord Humongous to the top of the pillar, you could lead up to the anchors of Full Steam Ahead, and then set a TR, if so desired.


Location 

To the right of Lord Humongous.


Protection 

The gear is not overly technical, but it does take some work finding and placing. Single set of TCUs from blue to orange, and a #1 camalot can be used in a horizontal up high. Many, many thin/medium wires!! The smallest I placed though was a #3 BD, and the placements are good when you find them.

Fixed biner anchor.



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By Keith Beckley
Oct 23, 2011

got this one done recently. Fell once at lower crux and then immediately tried again from ground and onsighted the rest! Great heady climbing with a cool roof finish! Pretty exciting climbing!

By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I used red and blue ballnuts which made the route feel more pg than pg-13. Little wallnuts and offsets served me well too. After the first bolt crux, the climbing is technical 5.11/11+ climbing with small accurate gear placements. This route was very fun, engaging and unique climbing on stellar rock all the way until the end. A waterfall classic in my opinion!