Full sport multi's in the Wasatch?
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Can anyone recommend some several pitch full sport routes with a max of 5.8-5.9ish around the Wasatch? I understand that most multi-pitch involves trad to some extent and thus I haven't really been able to find any full sport multi's around. Please suggest any if you know of them. Thanks! |
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Rock canyon has several good multi-pitch sport the one that comes to mind first is Cosmic Space Dust Lazers, and Lord of the Slings. |
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BCC has a few as well. You can modify the search on mp.com to look for these routes. |
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We just did Portable Darkness on Devils Castle. |
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I did portable darkness recently too, great six pitch route, no rack needed. other routes on the castle do require some trad gear to help protect them though. |
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Betty's Altered Elbow in LCC Altered States Gully is a 4-pitch bolted 5.9. It is LCC slab with some 20 foot runouts, but it is a bolted multi-pitch in your grade range. We used a couple tcu's but they weren't really necessary. |
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Western Grebe pitch 1&2 only. |
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cdec wrote:We just did Portable Darkness on Devils Castle. We placed two cams the entire route. One to back up an ancient ring piton the other was placed and then found a bolt 2 feet away.Kinda fun. Those pins were bulk military pitons (Wyott corp) packed in cosmoline. They rust like the dickin's when unprotected. I think their "born on" date was 1977, but, were placed when the route was put up. More for keeping folks on route than anything. See below. Pin on the left is the same as ones placed on the route (as well as a few short blade style pins). Ring pitons Cheers! |
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I was wondering about those. They look ancient. |
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When Brian and I did Shadow of the Blade, the first pitch had some old gear on it which looked like it had been placed and bailed from. One piece was an old, long flat bladed piton from Europe. Given the vintage and placement, had to have been there since the early 70's or so. I asked Ted about it...he confirmed a failed attempt back then. Pretty funny. |
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