Full Retard  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet Consensus:  5.13- [details] FA:  Mark Anderson, 6 Nov. 11 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Full Retard climbs the obvious bulge.

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Description 

Nearly the entire cliffline from The Gym to The North End hosts a thin layer of cap rock that resembles the Dolomite of Wild Iris, with sweeping bulges and minimal features. Perhaps this layer of stone holds the future of hard climbing at Shelf Road, though currently only a handful of routes venture so high. This is the latest such addition, climbing the impressive body-length bulge directly above Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo.

The route boils down to a dynamic and core-intensive boulder problem to clear the bulge. After a short, trivial slab section, big jugs lead out the roof. Several dynos, fancy footwork and some 2-finger pockets lead to an easy top out.

Location 

Climb the big roof & bulge directly above Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo.

Protection 

2 bolts, no anchor. After topping out, downclimb to the last bolt & lower back to Earth Mama's... anchor. The last bolt has fixed lowering hardware.

Note: A 50m rope is NOT long enough to lower to the ground from the top of this route.