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 ADVANCED
The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) 
Apogee Pending 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo 
Flamingo Lane 
Full Retard 
Here We Go Again... Again. 
Lead Farmer 
Logan's Run 
Long Black Veil 
Observe God's Mistake 
Pimp's Main Prophet 
Power Milk & Bagels 
Power Thirteen 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown 
Spitting Image 
Teenage Prostitutes 
That's What She Said 
Unknown 1 
Unknown 3 
Who Left the Fridge Open? 

Full Retard 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Anderson, 6 Nov. 11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011
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Full Retard climbs the obvious bulge.

Description 

Nearly the entire cliffline from The Gym to The North End hosts a thin layer of cap rock that resembles the Dolomite of Wild Iris, with sweeping bulges and minimal features. Perhaps this layer of stone holds the future of hard climbing at Shelf Road, though currently only a handful of routes venture so high. This is the latest such addition, climbing the impressive body-length bulge directly above Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo.

The route boils down to a dynamic and core-intensive boulder problem to clear the bulge. After a short, trivial slab section, big jugs lead out the roof. Several dynos, fancy footwork and some 2-finger pockets lead to an easy top out.


Location 

Climb the big roof & bulge directly above Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo.


Protection 

2 bolts, no anchor. After topping out, downclimb to the last bolt & lower back to Earth Mama's... anchor. The last bolt has fixed lowering hardware.

Note: A 50m rope is NOT long enough to lower to the ground from the top of this route.



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 7, 2011

I realized during the FA that the current anchor situation is lame. Next time I'm out there with a drill I plan to install a proper anchor.

By richard magill
Nov 7, 2011

Wow, what a total crap route name.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 7, 2011

Obviously, you're not a golfer.

I think if you understand the context, the name is not offensive. If you do understand the context and you're still offended, then I apologize for offending you, but I recommend that in the future, you avoid the internet.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 18, 2011

I'm not offended in the least. "You don't buy that? Ask Sean Penn, 2001."

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 8, 2011

This a super cool route that is very reminiscent of Wild Iris, and thus, very unique for Shelf. Perfect for boulderers.