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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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Full Penetration 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 1,229
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Feb 4, 2008

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Resting up on the jug at the apex of the cave, Ben...

Description 

While not the most aesthetic route in the world, this cave route tackles some of the steepest rock in central NM, and certainly Socorro. Short and steep with the crux at the start, this route should be a boulderer's dream.

Start with an easy chimney to a large ledge. Off the ledge pull the technical crux, a tricky boulder problem on mostly good holds. Passing the third and fourth bolts stressful rest opportunities abound. After the 4th bolt turn and head towards the anchors at the roof of the cave. Hang on passing another bolt on mostly jugs, and one really pitiful hold until you can stem to the backside of the cave and a much appreciated no hands rest. Chimney up a move or two and clip the anchors.

Don't get hung up on the 13b grade as listed in the old Sal Maestas guide, this route is clearly much easier. It isn't listed in either Rock Climbing NM Falcon guides.

If you head straight out the cave from the fourth fixed chain draw to the manky fixed draw, this is Mating Ritual 12c. This is simply an easier version of Full Penetration, and doesn't really contain any new moves.


Location 

On the left side of the wall, at the left end of the cave. Shares start and first three bolts with Sinister Dane.

To spot the line, look for the 4 new fixed chain draws. Climb these fixed draws out the arch. Before hitting the older shorter fixed draw on the right side of the cave, turn and head directly for the anchors in the roof of the cave. You will pass one more bolt on the way to the anchors.


Protection 

5 Bolts to Anchors. First four draws are fixed.



Photos of Full Penetration Slideshow Add Photo
Ben squeezing the steep arete through the middle section of the route.
Ben squeezing the steep arete through the middle s...
Setting up for the second throw on the start for Full Penetration / Sinister Dane.
Setting up for the second throw on the start for F...
The critical right hand pinch.
The critical right hand pinch.
Ben getting ready to pop for the good horn low on the route.
Ben getting ready to pop for the good horn low on ...
full penetration
full penetration
Eily Schroeder
Eily Schroeder
Comments on Full Penetration Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 4, 2008

Never done this, but I've heard others call it 13a, FWIW. If the crux is in the first 3 bolts, then its probably closer to 12+.

By Eric Whitbeck
Feb 15, 2012

Try not to get a disease clipping the anchors.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 8, 2013

Fixed draws? That sucks.