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Chicken Boulder
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Full Moon T 
I, Chicken T 

Full Moon 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Not sure.
Season: Most any
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Jason Kaplan on Oct 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: A close up of the climb and crack.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Scramble up off the road to the start of the route. Getting above the "keyhole" was a bit interesting maybe the crux. pretty sustained for the most part with a few rests thrown in to place gear. It's short but makes you work for it a little. You'll encounter some OW, fist crack, a few hand jambs, thin hands, maybe a few short lived sections of finger size.


The route is on the opposite side of I Chicken, the crack goes through to the other side being analogous.


I used upto a #5 Camalot C4 and as small as a yellow Alien for cams. I used the red Alien in 2 spots. I'm pretty sure I used my #5, #4, 3.5, 2 red cams (1 TCU, 1 Alien #0.75 equivalent), 1 yellow TCU, and a green DMM offset micro.

Photos of Full Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Anderson cleaning my gear.
Scott Anderson cleaning my gear.
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer view of the crack.
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor area.  Nice block to sling.
BETA PHOTO: The anchor area. Nice block to sling.

Comments on Full Moon Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
Oct 5, 2009

This is worth doing since it's so close to the road. I also checked with the rangers when I did it last spring that this stays open during the normal raptor closure in the area. (So does Iron Angle Slab for that matter.)
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 8, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crux on this seems like it is at the bottom where the crack is offwidth-sized. Your first piece is probably going to be the #5 Camalot. It is too bad this climb is so short. Just when you are starting to have fun it is over.

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