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Scott Anderson cleaning my gear.
Scramble up off the road to the start of the route. Getting above the "keyhole" was a bit interesting maybe the crux. pretty sustained for the most part with a few rests thrown in to place gear. It's short but makes you work for it a little. You'll encounter some OW, fist crack, a few hand jambs, thin hands, maybe a few short lived sections of finger size.
The route is on the opposite side of I Chicken
, the crack goes through to the other side being analogous.
I used upto a #5 Camalot C4 and as small as a yellow Alien for cams. I used the red Alien in 2 spots. I'm pretty sure I used my #5, #4, 3.5, 2 red cams (1 TCU, 1 Alien #0.75 equivalent), 1 yellow TCU, and a green DMM offset micro.
By Jason Haas
Oct 5, 2009
This is worth doing since it's so close to the road. I also checked with the rangers when I did it last spring that this stays open during the normal raptor closure in the area. (So does Iron Angle Slab for that matter.)