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 ADVANCED
Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABM TR 
Bagatelle T,TR 
Beginner's Delight T,TR 
Beginners Demise TR 
Bloody Mary T 
Chicken Delight/Chicken Tonight T,TR 
Couch of Pain T,TR 
Cracking Up T,TR 
Death & Disfiguration T 
Death and Transfiguration T,TR 
Degrade Your Sister T,TR 
Epiphany T 
Fakir, The T,TR 
Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 
Hero's Fright Variation TR 
Heroes Fright T,TR 
Immaculate Conception TR 
October First T,TR 
Phlogiston T,TR 
Pretzel, The T,TR 
Prime Rib T,TR 
Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 
Wild Horses TR 

Full Moon Over Baraboo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 919
Submitted By: Jan Brown on Apr 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

Full Moon Over Baraboo is a very nice jam crack climb near Chicken Delight (rt 182). Climb up easy terrain toward an ominous overhanging bulge at about 50 ft. The closer you get, the bigger it looks. Once at the overhang, reach up and sink your hands into the finest jams at the Lake. If you can dial in the jams you'll have no problem getting past the crux. The rock directly above the overhang is slopey and crimpy and will present a challenge as well.

Protection 

Some medium nuts or camalots to get past the roof.


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By Pete Arndt
Nov 5, 2003

Regarding route description of "Full Moon over Baraboo":It is my opinion that the route does not go right and does not use the jam crack. It was my impression that the true "Full Moon over Baraboo" goes more directly over the roof and perhaps just a tich left, of courese not using holds on "Hero's Fright 5.7". This way may seem hard but at first but as you boost yourself up and lock off a nice hold comes into view.

I do agree that the face above the roof is not a "gimmie".In fact I think this route done this way is harder than "Upper D" which is sort of a bench mark 5.9 for Devils Lake.

I'm very partial to "Full Moon" as it is the only route in Swartling's Book that has a reference to my hometown.Great Name.....overlooked great route at Devils Lake.
By Kate Okenatez
Nov 5, 2003

Yup. I agree. I'd climbed it with the beta that Full Moon was the face off to the left of the big beefy crack (which is a 5.8?). And, I agree that it is harder this way than Upper D--definitely not as sustained as Upper D, but formidable nonetheless!
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Nov 5, 2003

If the crack is not used on Full Moon, then is the crack a distinct route in itself? Any thoughts?
By Terry Kieck
Nov 6, 2003

The crack is called "Chicken Tonight". Its in the book.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Aug 14, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Even though it has already been said, Full Moon has no jamming in it whatsoever, its a face climb slightly to the right of Heroes Fright.
By Tradoholic
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yes, a very nice face climb left of Hero's Fright that ignores the crack on the right and left.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2011

Did you lead "Full Moon" Nick? It acually has just enough gear to make it OK safe.
By Tradoholic
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

No, but I did look at the gear and not using the within reach rule (part of my personal Constitution) this would be X rated I think, maybe after I get a few other projects first.