Full Metal Jacket  5.10a A3

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Type:  Aid, 1500 feet, Grade V Consensus:  5.10a A3 [details] FA:  E.C. Joe and David Hickey Season:  Spring, Fall Submitted By:  Dave Daly on Nov 6, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

E.C Joe and David Hickey on the FA of Full Metal J...

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Description 

This great, fun and challenging route on the East Face of Moro Rock, was established back in September of 88' by Eddie Joe and Dave Hickey. It consists of 5 full on stiff pitches of free climbing and intricate clean cam hooking/riveting and overhanging thin blade/beak aid work. It is a great mixture of both and will most definitely give any party a day or two of worth while challenges. It doesn't see too many ascents and will most likely require some leaver gear i.e. heads and rivets. There is a awesome bivy at the top of P-4, in order to enjoy the atmosphere and scenary. Beware of both poison oak and roaming black bears that are very prevelant on the sloping 1 hour gulley down hill approach.

Location 

Park at the Vista lot and descend the gully which is visible and accessed at the southeast end of the Parking Lot. Continue down the steep gully with East Face of Moro Rock on your right, approx. 45-60 minutes, to the halfway point where the obvious roofs, which are left of "Lady's on Top" and "Glow with the Flow" are located. FMJ begins at the bottom and just left of the big bulges/roof systems.

P-1: There are two starts that initiate at a bush after a 4th class romp up a slab. a) goes left and up the C-1 slightly overhanging seam over a very loose block or b) goes right and up the sightly overhanging #3 & #4 Head seam. Both go for 70' with a total legnth of P-1 @120'.

P-2: This is the Classic fine face and left thin facing corner that requires thin nuts, fine Liebacking and Face techniques. The crux 5.10 moves are at the botom as the ramp tapers off as you ascend. The pitch finishs at a single(spinner) bolt and plenty of natural pro. If you are hauling, recommend that you set up an anchor below the belay ledge as to allow the haul line a freer run. 165'.

P-3: This is the fun, thin but loose and dirty C-1 left facing and overhanging corner that turns right onto a slightly overhanging face with five nice rivets. 165'.

P-4: Starts off with very thin A2+ bladed overhanging seam onto an awkward Beak Hole which then leads to more overhanging rivets and two loose bolts. Surmount the bulge onto six more vertical rivets (#4 is pounded in but can be manipulated with a very thin #1 Stopper as a Hangar) up to the small ledge and anchor. This is a great place to bivy as there are three solid bolts and a fabulous view. 60'.

P-5: The Rivet pitch which consists of 13 solid rivets. First section of eight rivets leads you to a large horn that can be tied off then another rivet. From here, surmount the very awkward bulge onto some A2+ #2 & #3 Heads to four more rivets, than a 5.9 slab shuffle to a single bolt and natural small pro anchor. 120'.

To the Top: There are two options. You can either continue straight up on unprotected 5.8 face for 60' to two solid bolts and then 4th class for 200' which then joins the top 5.4 section of the East Face (recommended if hauling). Or, go right 140' on the 5.9 ramp to a bolt/pro belay. Then continue straight up 5.4 slabs to the railing protected tourist ledge.

Note: The haul on P-1 & P-2 can be arduous at the least.

Protection 

1-60m(Dynamic)
1-60m(Static)
2-Beaks
4-KB's(2short/thin & 2long/thin)
2-LA's(#1)
2ea-#2-5 Wired Nuts
2ea-#1-4 Wired Hex's
2ea-#4-12 Offsets
2ea-1/4"-1" TCU's
2ea-1"-4" FCU's
13ea-RivetHgrs(thin & thick or can use stoppers in a clinch)
4ea-#2-4 Spare Heads
5ea-3/8"x1" Spare Rivets
Small Bolt Kit(for possible maint/replacement i.e. old bolts/rivets)
10ea-Draws
30ea-Spare Biners
10ea-24" Slings

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It follows that beautiful curving corner way up th...