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Arrowhead
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Full Metal Jacket 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 320', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, rope solo, September 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,902
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Sep 11, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The East Buttress (Point 12387) of Arrowhead viewe...

Description 

Begin from Ledge 1 about 10 feet right of the Inside East Buttress route.

1a. Climb the crack on the right and bridge up through a slot into the main crack (a short squeeze chimney at first). Jam fists and hands to a good stance behind the Bullet (10a, 80 feet).

1b. Climb a wide crack on the left as for Inside East Buttress, then work up and right to the top of a pinnacle (the Bullet) in the main crack (10a, 80 feet).

2. Continue in the same crack (mostly hands) into an awesome overhanging wide crack (crux, up to 12 inches). Bridge and jam to a fantastic stance on the right (can belay here). Jam a final hand crack (9) to Ledge 2 (10c, 100 feet in all). Move the belay to a slot beneath an obvious, left-facing dihedral.

3. Bridge up the slot then jam and stem the dihedral to Ledge 3 near the top of the East Buttress (10a, 100 feet).

Rappel the route from slings around boulders or escape north and west over the top of the East Buttress (Point 12387) and scramble to a junction with the South Ramp.

Location 

Hike and scramble directly up from Black Lake and gain the big alcove between Arrowhead Spire and the East Buttress of Arrowhead. FMJ ascends the south face of the East Buttress about 10 feet right of Tommy Caldwell's recent climb (Inside East Buttress). It is also possible to follow Ledge 1 north all the way from the southeast shoulder of Arrowhead to the big alcove.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack from 0.25 inch to 5 inches plus several slings for chockstones and chicken heads. Bring a double length sling to belay at the Bullet.

Rappel anchors are in place (slings with rings) at Ledge 2 and Ledge 3. These slings were likely eaten by marmots within a year, so plan on leaving new slings. The voracious buggers probably packed off with the rings too.


Photos of Full Metal Jacket Slideshow Add Photo
The East Buttress viewed from the south on Ledge 1.  Red carets indicate the belay stations for Full Metal Jacket.
BETA PHOTO: The East Buttress viewed from the south on Ledge 1...
Tied-off chockstone in the beautiful handcrack on pitch two.
Tied-off chockstone in the beautiful handcrack on ...
View down from the alternative belay stance, 140 feet above Ledge 1. This 12-inch ledge is just a few feet above the awesome overhanging chimney on pitch 2. Note the knee pad(s). Good idea.
View down from the alternative belay stance, 140 f...
View straight up the handcrack on pitch two.  This could be near the top of pitch one.  Hard to recall six years later.
View straight up the handcrack on pitch two. This...
Photo of Ledge 1 looking northeast toward the bottom of Arrowhead Spire.  This ledge can be traversed (class 3) to approach or escape from routes on Arrowhead Spire and the East Buttress.
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Ledge 1 looking northeast toward the bott...

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