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Wild Card 

Full House 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RWright, 2000
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 7, 2002
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Description 

Full House is a variation start to Slot Machine. Watch the nasty block at the base. One day, when the canyon is closed down, we may get a chance to cut it loose. FA by RMW. FFA by Greg Purnell in June 2000. Lots of open hand power in the opening.


Protection 

Ten draws and a rope. Rap back via anchors on Slot Machine.



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By David Benson
Jan 31, 2003

To me the obvious way to do this route is more like 11c/d, no where near the given 12b/c which seems contrived.

Don't read if you don't want the beta: From the horn on the right below the roof, reach up high and left w/ the left hand to the crips above the corner on your left. Match right heel to right hand, heel hook until both hands are higher. This avoids the open hand moves above the first overhang. Seemed very obvious to not utilize this hold. Could I be off route? Hard to argue since you're on a variant of a route anyway!