Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Comic Strip - SW Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Comic Book T 
Cruising for Burgers T 
Frontal Lobotomy T 
Full Frontal Nudity T 
Pacific Coast Highway S 

Full Frontal Nudity 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, February 1975
Page Views: 1,538
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Full Frontal Nudity, 5.10-

Description 

Follow the marked trail out to the Comic Strip where you will find this climb. This formation will be facing away from you as approach, but it is easily identified as a massive formation which lies at the mouth of rocky canyon heading east (the left as you approach). It is also the next large formation encountered after passing the Mary Worth Buttress.

P1) Start on the most obvious crack splitting the face - this is the Comic Book route (5.9+)- and climb it past some wide sections to a dike. Traverse left 20' to a bolted belay on the dike.

P2) Climb sporty friction past three bolts from the belay, aiming for a crack which leads to a ledge.

To descend there exists several options - 1) From the ledge with bolts scramble up an awkward crack to the top of the formation. From here downclimb/scramble to the west down a rocky gully and then circle around the toe of the formation back to your pack. This should take about 10-15 minutes if you hit it right. 2) Rap the route from anchors after the second pitch (165')- with two (2) ropes. 3) Rap 85' from the top anchors down and right to the anchor atop the first pitch of Comic Book. From here a second 85' rap leads to the ground. This is the easiest way to go as it requires a single rope. Not advisable if other parties are climbing the Comic Book route.

This is a really fun two pitch route that is well worth doing when in the area. It's about as good as the Comic Book route and more interesting too, although it typically has fewer stars. Another great route name right up there with X-Rated Tits (5.9) which is over near Barker Dam.


Protection 

3 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3". All belays are bolted (3/8").



Comments on Full Frontal Nudity Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 7, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The total commitment required on Pitch 2 will leave you with a pounding headache! I remember this climb having a very big feel to it, suspended above the desert floor. Nowhere very hard, but quite sustained.

Number 4 Camalot on Pitch 1 helps.

Exposed position, delicate face technique.

By Randy
Jan 16, 2003

Just pulled out an old Monty Python video; the first episode? Full Frontal Nudity! It is still funny and inspired the route name. Nothing to do with X-Rated Tits (that's a whole other story.)

By David Evans
May 15, 2003

On the FA I led the first pitch and placed the anchor bolts. Randy led the exciting second pitch and placed those bolts.

By D. Evans
Nov 1, 2009

Randy reminded me recently that I did place the last bolt on the second pitch.