Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills 2013
Page Views: 17,289 total · 135/month
Shared By: Tank Evans on Aug 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Full Dunn-Westbay frees the original Dunn-Westbay aid line. Josh Wharton had freed about ½ the route in 2011 at 13-, avoiding the 5.14 and 5.13- crux sections of the aid line by traversing over into Gear and Clothing. The original aid line follows one perfect crack line to the summit, and the Full Dunn-Westbay free climbs this system ledge-to-ledge in 4, 80m (80m rope required!!!) rope-stretching pitches. It is the most continuous splitter route on the Diamond. No bolts were added for protection on any of the pitches. The immaculate rock, ample protection, sustained climbing, and spectacular position makes it truly one of the best multi-pitch climbs in Colorado. It is hard to believe things like this exist in the alpine.

Note: It is possible to split the crux pitch into 2 pitches by belaying (hanging) at the end of the 5.12 section on the crux pitch, it is unclear whether this changes the grade. Doing it as one mega-pitch certainly adds a mental crux. The proper route should be done ledge-to-ledge as Tommy Caldwell envisioned.

Location Suggest change

Begin by climbing up the right side of the Green Pillar. Follow the splitter to the summit

Protection Suggest change

An 80m rope! 6 slings, 18 quickdraws. A single set #0.75-#3 Camalot, doubles in tips to fingers, singles in micro, and 1 set of stoppers.

Photos

loading