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Full Clip 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Will Stanhope, Mike Doyle, Ben Moon, 4/08
Page Views: 636
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Apr 21, 2011
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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another killer line. It's worth considering that this line and it's neighbor to the left were both put up on-sight, ground-up, on the same trip by one person.
Full Clip is basically the stemming version of Winter Sustenance. Climb through a seemingly endless 60' of yellow and blue metolius to a brief crux move followed by a tenuous no-hands stem. After this, it's another 20' of sustained 5.10+ to the chains.


Location 

Full Clip is the endless fingers corner in darker rock immediately right of Winter Sustenance. (the elegant, super-chalked fingers splitter)


Protection 

The rack that worked great for me was:
4 blue metolius
8 yellow metolius
3 orange metolius
1 red metolius
That being said, it'll eat pretty much anything in the blue-orange range (esp. yellow) and a red is nice to have for the top.



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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 21, 2011

A note on the grade: I put 12+ up there because it's what Will gave it after the FA. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't. If it is, it's easily the most accessible route at that grade at the crag and I would be surprised if it's not down-graded once it starts getting more attention.