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Routes in Full Charge Crag
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Bite Me! Lorax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blunderbuss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Did You Eat Disco Biscuits? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fixing the Ferris Wheel S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Full Charge S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Jim Dandy to the Rescue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Last Of The Pagans S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mithras Equinox Shift Traverse 1, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mithras Equinox Shift Traverse 2, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oftedal Serenade S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Scepter of the Green Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Still Fuc%ing Waiting S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Swashbuckler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waiting For The Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wyld Stallions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Wilkinson, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 2,965 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Jun 23, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Creep onto the wall under the roof and carefully ease your way through the first crux. Wind up and left to reach the giant pockets and traverse right, under the roof, to turn the lip near the crack. Regroup at the ledge stance, then follow giant pockets up the creamy headwall. The black bulge guards the anchor; there are no more big buckets. Fantastic route! Long too. It's best to have a follower clean it.
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