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Piedra River - Lower West
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Full Body Brace 
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Taster's Choice 
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Unsorted Routes:

Full Body Brace 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alex Scott & Travis Reid
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Pullhard on Oct 24, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: View from east side. Location of "Full Body Brace...

Description 

This trad climb has plenty of face holds and edges. The route also features good hand jams and some stemming.

A pocketed face gets you started in the crack, which takes gear well. Pull through the easily protected crux - a short, steep section. Cruise to the top using the crack and face. The crack widens toward the top; finish on the face to the right.

Belay the second up and remember to enjoy the views over at the edge of the prow.


Location 

It is near the farthest visible prow on the lower west cliff band. Use the same approach as for the other lower west climbs, but take the right fork in the trail 20 yards before First Wall. It is a 10-15 minute hike from here, following the rim of the canyon.

Look for the chained anchor (N 37 24.891' W 107 12.048'). If the cliff below disappears, you have hiked past the climb. Rack up, rap from the chains, then climb it back out to the top. Or, hike down just past the prow to access the bottom. There is some scree and oak brush if you hike, but it can easily be done.

Note: there are two cracks in this area. The one easiest to see from the rim is dirty and full of choss; this is not the route. The one to climb is to the climber's left. It is difficult to see from the rim, but it is obvious at the base of the climb.


Protection 

Cams: mostly hands and big hands. If you're comfortable at the grade, nothing bigger than BD #4. A small piece might help near the start.



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By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jul 12, 2013

This will be a great route once it cleans up.