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Routes in Mount Rainier
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Bread Loaf V0 4 |
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Central Mowich Face AI3-4 Steep Snow |
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Curtis Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2 Steep Snow |
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East Success Couloir Steep Snow |
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Emmons Glacier Mod. Snow |
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Fuhrer Finger Mod. Snow |
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Fuhrer Thumb Mod. Snow |
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Gibraltar Ledges AI1-2 Mod. Snow |
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Ingraham Glacier Direct Mod. Snow |
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Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route T Mod. Snow |
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Kautz Glacier WI2-3 |
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Liberty Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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North Mowich Headwall WI3 Mod. Snow |
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Ptarmigan Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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Sunset Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2 Steep Snow |
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Upper Castle Toprope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Willis Wall M5+ X |
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Wilson Headwall WI2 Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Snow, Alpine, 2300 ft (697 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Wickwire, Charlie Raymond and Tom Stewart May 27, 1972 |
| Page Views: | 2,684 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Fuhrer Thumb
If you have already done Fuhrer Finger, Furher Thumb is a decent alternative to add to your tick list. Use the standard approach and high camp for Kautz Glacier and Fuhrer Finger. High camp is located on the west side of Wilson Glacier below the Turtle Snowfield. Starting at 9,200 feet rock outcroppings up to 9,400 feet provide a number of suitable camp sites.
From high camp traverse north-northeast across the Wilson Glacier toward Fuhrer Finger. Crevasse navigation will be necessary. Fuhrer Thumb will be the snow couloir immediately west of Fuhrer Finger. Beware that crevasses cut across the entrance to the Fuhrer Thumb couloir.
Climb directly up the couloir (up to 45 degrees) At roughly 10,500 feet you will reach an ice/ rock band that will offer to go left or right. Your decision will be based on snow/ice conditions. I decided on left.
Continue up the couloir until you connect with the Fuhrer Finger at 11,500 feet. A right traverse may be necessary earlier depending on route finding and conditions.
Alpine start recommended (1:00 or 2:00 AM). Rockfall began to occur at twilight.
Overall climb was fun with hard snow and ice.
From high camp traverse north-northeast across the Wilson Glacier toward Fuhrer Finger. Crevasse navigation will be necessary. Fuhrer Thumb will be the snow couloir immediately west of Fuhrer Finger. Beware that crevasses cut across the entrance to the Fuhrer Thumb couloir.
Climb directly up the couloir (up to 45 degrees) At roughly 10,500 feet you will reach an ice/ rock band that will offer to go left or right. Your decision will be based on snow/ice conditions. I decided on left.
Continue up the couloir until you connect with the Fuhrer Finger at 11,500 feet. A right traverse may be necessary earlier depending on route finding and conditions.
Alpine start recommended (1:00 or 2:00 AM). Rockfall began to occur at twilight.
Overall climb was fun with hard snow and ice.
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